USA
A spirited visit to Indiana
Article and photography by David J. Cox
A bright and sunny day awaited us as we headed out to the small Indiana communities we would explore over the next few days – Bloomington, Columbus and Nashville.
We would start our adventure a little south of Indianapolis in Bloomington, where the landscape is inspiring to the spirit and the eyes. Tucked in the lush forests of the Hoosier National Forest, this small city is home to Indiana University, a healthy international cuisine, as well as a vast array of outdoor activities.
After a late lunch, we arrived at one of the largest wineries in the U.S. As a big fan of west coast wines, I was looking forward to seeing what the Midwest had to offer. Oliver Winery has deep roots here, being the creation of a law professor from Indiana University, William Oliver. He was so passionate about bringing wine to the mid-west that he drove the effort to pass legislation that allowed Indiana growers to build small wineries in the state.
A year after the Indiana Small Winery Act passed, Oliver Winery opened in 1972. Their flagship bottle of Camelot Mead began their climb to fame. With hints of orange blossom its easy to see why this wine became a best seller. Now run by William’s son Bill, the winery is expanding in all directions with a range of red and white wines that cater to every taste. I suggest the Creekbend Chambourcin red and the Creekbend Vignoles semi-dry white. A tour of, or picnic in, the property is also a wonderful experience.
Later, we would be treated to a series of home-grown beers at a local fixture, Lennies, where some famous faces like John Mellencamp have been known to enjoy the pork tenderloin or massive Lennie’s Original, a sandwich with beef and fixings stacked high.
A night’s sleep and we would experience the great outdoors with a hike and kayak adventure on the man-made Lake Monroe. As we walked, we were treated to the story of the park and bittersweet history of the reservoir construction by a knowledgeable ranger who explained how the Lake displaced an entire village.
After some more local beer and one of their signature Stromboli pizza sandwiches at Nick’s English Hut, we were treated to the story of this must-visit restaurant in the heart of the Indiana University’s campus serving folks since 1927.
Fuelled up with good food, we then headed to the Upland Brewing Co. headquartered in this bustling university town. Here I would be introduced to the complex and unique wood-aged sour ales that Upland has built their reputation on. Guided by their expert brew master, we were taught how the entire brewing process worked and then treated to a sampling of their tapped beers at their Wood Shop, a state-of-the-art production facility and tasting room. Their Hoosier Gameday Lager was a personal favorite while the others with me preferred the Guava Sour and the Champagne Velvet Pilsner.
Cardinal Spirits have been using local ingredients, modern technology and traditional methods to craft their unique whiskeys, vodkas, and gins. After a quick tour of the distillery, we were offered a series of delicious craft cocktails, canned carbonated mixed drinks as well as their aged whiskey. The highlight was when our host himself prepared the popular drink-de-jour, an Expresso Martini with Cardinal’s delicious and flavorful base.
That evening, I was treated to a steak the likes of which I have not enjoyed since I was a kid. Janko’s Little Zagreb, a legendary local steakhouse and a staple of the area open since 1973, offered up their 18oz Rib Eye with a perfect baked potato. Their entrees and other offerings are fantastic as well, especially their Spicy Meatballs!
An hour east of Bloomington is Columbus, known as a great destination for architecture lovers and after the guided tour we had, it was definitely true. The churches, bridges, homes and even the famous Cummins company factory buildings all offered unique architecture and styles and a treat for the eyes.
Lunch would introduce us to another local wonder, ZwanzigZ Pizza and Brewing, created by pizza lovers Kurt and Lisa Zwanzig. Originally a corner pizza place, they have built a local empire with a lovely restaurant and more recently a brewery. The rotating stock of over 20 craft beers, including their award winning and quite tasty Ticket Chocolate Beer and Ghost Pepper Imperial Stout. They also make some mouth-watering Root Beer and other craft sodas that are wonderful.
The next sipping stop would be at the Simmons family farm in Columbus, whose present Simmons, David, has expanded the business into many fields. Starting with their wines, I enjoyed the light but flavorful Marechal Foch Red as well as the refreshing and crisp Autumn Late Harvest. The forward-thinking David and wife Brenda decided to branch into brewing and distilling and have come up with unique and quirky beers that include names like Fresh Froot and Sour Deisel. The highlight for me however were their Whiskeys: the crisp and clean Wheat, the full bodied 6-year Straight Burbon and my favorite the Rye, one of the best I have tasted. The property also has a restaurant, and every year hosts a Corn Maze Beer Fest where dozens of breweries from around the country are featured in an 11-acre corn maze.
The taste still on my mind, we were off to a real treat. Founded in 1900 and family- owned, Zaharakos ice cream shop is a sight to behold. Recently restored, it contains two early nineteenth-century onyx soda fountains, an Italian marble counter as well as a 1908 Welte Orchestrion. There is also a series of bookable rooms with antiques and period-accurate accessories – a step back in time.
Dinner at the exclusive Henry Social Club would round out the day and include a several course meal and some excellent cocktails made with spirits from local distilleries.
A morning spent mountain biking and hiking in the Brown County State Park led to a discussion about sacred Native American sites within the state. Moving on, we enjoyed a guided tour of the Brown County art gallery which came with a history lesson on the beginnings of the artist colony of Nashville, Indiana. Down the road, I saw the Brown County Art Guild residing in the historic Minor House and learned that the Guild supports and showcases current Guild artists and has a permanent collection as well.
We then headed for lunch in Indiana’ s oldest country inn, the Story Inn. Run by a knowledgeable and passionate Rich Hofstetter, it has become a destination for weddings, special event evenings and even comedy nights. He has ensured that visitors can enjoy the property’s fully renovated rooms and guesthouses, including the room with the ghost of the “Blue Lady”.
My sipping trip to Indiana ended with a visit to the state’s largest craft distillery, Hard Truth. The brainchild of some veterans-turned-entrepreneurs, this special landmark is situated on 325 acres of mixed-use land. During our visit we were treated to the ATV tour, where we stopped at a reproduction of a country still (that works and can be rented!) as well as a speak easy and a stage for live concerts. The tasting was a great way to end off the trip, as they offered a magnificent aged 94% rye that was beyond good.
Hidden gems are my favorite discoveries when I travel, and I found a treasure chest in Indiana.
