USA
Charleston: Then and Now
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
It was all about the rice, our guide added, that is how Charleston became the richest city in early America. Rice was ideal to grow in this region as water was abundant for this thirsty crop that was sold for more than any other grains. According to the recently opened International African American Museum, we would find out the fields were often tended to by slaves from West Africa who had experience with the grain. This industry ultimately led to Charleston also becoming one of the major slavery ports in the Americas.
The Museum is an exceptional looking building placed on the shores of the original slavery port. It is raised by a floor to honour the many bodies that laid below the soil. It took years of planning and funding, but finally it stands to bear witness to the history of slavery in the New World. Hi-tech and yet simple, it has an amazing array of original African artifacts and as well multimedia presentations by modern-day African Americans. A one-of-a-kind museum, it is now a must visit when in Charleston.
This would be my second time to Charleston, and really, it is the same charming and inviting southern city today as it was two decades ago. Walking the streets of central Charleston is like being teleported to a time centuries ago. Life looks good here even with the tourist crowds as there is never any traffic jams nor unwanted noise, just a peaceful and harmonious laid-back feeling.
Our hotel, the Mills House, was ideally located on Meeting Street, at the very heart of old Charleston and minutes away from the famous slave market. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques and a multitude of restaurants and bars, this historic building was in immaculate shape with all the modern amenities including a pool and spa, but also kept true to its rich past.
You can walk around aimlessly and find something of interest on about every street here. Every building has a story to tell that deepens the history of Charleston. One street away from the Mill House is King Street, which has something for everyone from grand hotels to fine dining, an old movie theatre and many small specialty shops.
Dining could not be any better as Charleston offers so many choices, it would be hard to decide. We did try the Church and Union restaurant, not only for its menu but we were enamoured by its uniqueness. Housed inside an old, abandoned church, the ceiling has the entire book of Sun Tzu’s The Art of War written on the ceiling. An over-the-top idea, but it sure does stand out and will be remembered.
No first trip to Charleston would be complete without a visit to Angel Oak. It is jaw dropping at first site. So immense is this Oak tree, it is hard to describe, how not only it reaches to the skies, but also in every direction, even downwards to the ground and would be the biggest single tree I have ever seen. This I would consider a freak of nature and has defied centuries of hurricanes to stand defiant and strong.
