Cruise
Aboard the Amandara on the Mighty Mekong
Article and photography by Nicholas Kontis
The Mekong River is a lifeline that unites six countries, from the Himalayas through Southeast Asia. Beginning in Tibet, it traverses China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam enroute to the broad South China Sea. For thousands of years, the fabled thoroughfare has connected merchants and traders from China to Southeast Asia.
Interest in river exploration has boomed in the past decade. On this voyage, I have chosen to focus on two countries in the lower Mekong region with a past inextricably intertwined. My seven-day “Riches of the Mekong” cruise operates between frenetic Ho Chi Minh City, still called Saigon (its French colonial name) by many, and Siem Reap, Cambodia, the gateway to Angkor Wat.
The meandering, open-jaw itinerary aboard the AmaDara with AmaWaterways, a respected leader in the river-cruise industry, runs in both directions. My wife and I started in Cambodia and ended in Vietnam, using our full week to explore the ancient cultures of Cambodia and the secrets of Vietnam’s fecund Mekong Delta.
Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City
The exotic splendors began in Siem Reap. Our home base for exploring Angkor Wat, the world’s single largest religious building and hub of a vast archaeological park, was the five-star luxury Sofitel Phokeethra Golf & Spa. Our Cambodian guide, Fin, explained that the massive Angkor Wat citadel was a Hindu temple complex before it transitioned to Buddhism in the 10th century. And he offered many other snippets of knowledge: “Did you know that the movie Tomb Raider, with Angelina Jolie, was filmed at Ta Prohm Temple?” Fin queried.
We boarded the AmaDara in the river town of Angkor Ban, a four-hour bus ride from Siem Reap. From there, our voyage down the Mekong took us to stopovers that are anything but household names: Oudong, Silk Island and Ouknhatey Village, Cambodia; Tan Chau, Sa Dec and Cai Be, Vietnam.
We docked for two nights in the Cambodian capital city of Phnom Penh. Here we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Unlike the rest of the cruise, this museum is a place of sadness instead of joy. From 1975 to 1979, under the despotic neo-Marxist rule of General Pol Pot, nearly 2 million Cambodians were brutally killed by Khmer Rouge soldiers. It’s not a happy place, but it is a part of history that must be told for a full understanding of modern Cambodia.
We ended our trip with a bus ride from the AMA dock to the Sofitel Saigon. Some passengers opted to continue with the cruise company to Hanoi and HaLong Bay.
Founded in 2002, AmaWaterways is deeply passionate about designing outstanding guest experiences. Indeed, the word ama is Latin for “love.” AMA’s promotional slogan — “Oceans take you to countries; rivers take you through them” — reminds me of the beauty of river cruising.
Aboard the riverboat
The AmaDara never leaves the Mekong. Launched in 2015, the ship is 302 feet long and 46 feet wide; it transports up to 124 guests along with 52 crew. Its 62 spacious staterooms and suites on four decks boast twin balconies and air-conditioning. A fitness room, spa and treatment room are other highlights. A small souvenir shop sells T-shirts and other items from the region.
The ship’s Saigon Lounge is an all-purpose meeting lounge. Briefings of the day’s stopovers, cultural lectures, folklore performances and cooking demonstrations are daily fare; singing and dancing often continue well into the night.
Another focal point is the shaded top deck, where guests may enjoy AmaDara’s pool with lounge chairs and two bars, and the bridge from which Vietnamese Captain Tuc navigates the AmaDara down the Mekong. The onboard crew includes Hannah from Danang, Vietnam; as the ship’s wellness coach, she provides classes in stretching, core strengthening and Tai Chi.
Luxurious cabins
French Colonial décor, including rich teakwood-veneer paneling and staircases, local art and paintings, bring authentic color to the epic sailing. Stylish corridors guide guests to staterooms and suites. Luxurious cabins feature king-sized beds with cotton bedding; spacious bathrooms have glass showers and suites include a separate Jacuzzi tub. A mini-sofa, writing desk, hair dryer, bathrobe and slippers, flat-screen TV, daily complimentary water, and an in-house telephone round out the roomy guest quarters.
Fine dining
Executive Chef Nhan, from Vietnam, and his team of Cambodian and Vietnamese cooks create delicious meals. Besides the extraordinary local fare, Western options are always available as well in the riverboat’s Mekong Restaurant.
Breakfast includes pho’, a Vietnamese beef- or chicken-noodle soup with vegetables, lemongrass and chilies. Local fruit includes mango, jackfruit, papaya, rambutan, dragon fruit and sapodilla. Home-made pastries, yogurts and muesli are also at the breakfast buffet. An omelet station serves made-to-order egg dishes, including eggs Benedict. Champagne is available for mimosas, and Vietnamese coffee is among the world’s most flavorful.
Lunch features a variety of freshly baked breads, cold cuts, a wide variety of cheeses, and sandwiches of the day, along with made-to-order pasta, soups and marinated Asian tuna. Caesar salad, pizza, smash hamburgers and cheeseburgers are available on the Sun Deck for those craving American fare.
Dinners are like those of a specialty restaurant. A vegetarian option is always available. My favorite meals were the braised lamb shank with balsamic jus, tomato-pepper ragout and creamy garlic potatoes; and a buttery hoki fillet with stir-fried Thien Ly flowers, garlic butterfly peas, sticky rice and a curry shrimp sauce.
Our farewell dinner menu was a surf-and-turf of sirloin streak and crawfish in thyme-shallot red wine or a crispy, melt-in-your-mouth fillet of barramundi and crawfish in cream sauce.
Each guest is assigned an intimate evening for an elevated meal at the Chef’s Table — a tasting menu for a limited number of guests. The lavish main included aged, marbled sirloin steak served with garlic roasted creamed potato, crispy onion rings, and Asian leaves with a mushroom-and-truffle dressing.
Hospitality gems
“Please travel the Mekong River with an open mind and an open heart. to immerse yourself in local culture,” said A.K., our cruise director from Saigon. “At the end of the day, you will leave us with an unforgettable experience.” Indeed, AmaDara’s Cambodian-Vietnamese crew is nothing short of remarkable, catering to the every whim of guests. My wife has dietary restrictions. Makara, the Cambodian maitre d’, personally assured that each of her meals was dairy-free.
Tipping is left entirely to guests’ discretion. Many passengers follow a guideline of US$80 per person, to be distributed among the AmaDara ship crew. Informative, social and always available to answer questions, A.K., our cruise director, deserved a bit more: AMA recommended US$60 as a tip for our stellar leader. Guests have the option of settling gratuities by credit card or cash.
The pulse of the Mekong
The mantra of veteran cruisers is to always be flexible and tolerant. At the heart of AMA’s Mekong passage, it’s about forming a connection with the generous onboard team, including the knowledgeable guides. Those who gain the greatest rewards create new friendships with fellow shipmates, immerse themselves in unique experiences, and—above all—dive headfirst into encounters with curious children practicing their English, with village monks delivering Buddhist blessings, with strolls through food markets and simple villages, with jungle treks and exchanges with talented native artisans.
Built for the Mekong River, the AmaDara transports guests into the rhythms of the immense waterway, delivering an unforgettable cultural immersion into life along the lower Mekong.
