Italy

An Italian Fairy-tale Tour of Alluring Umbria

Article and photography by Michael Morcos

Italy has so much to offer the traveler that it is sometimes difficult to choose a region to visit. Certainly Rome, Venice and Florence, the most visited places in Italy are beautiful, but beyond that the region of Umbria has a wonderful array of things to see and do. Umbria‘s big brother, Tuscany, is undeniably well known and frequently traveled. Umbria is equally beautiful, peaceful, packed with history, amazing landscape, charming villages, outdoor activities and delicious local gastronomy. On our tour here would prove that Umbria should be top of mind for touring and laid-back vacations.

Decugnano dei Barbi winery

Our first stop on our tour would be a fabulous winery in the district of Orvieto. On this very hot and sunny day, our drive was relaxing, and we anticipated a great visit. On a hill overlooking the extensive landscape were miles of vineyards, olive trees and lush vegetation. The Decugnano dei Barbi estate was quiet, organized and a pleasure to visit. I felt at peace and in harmony with the surroundings. We would find out that contrary to beliefs, Umbria produces some incredible labels that rival most other wines from the more renown houses in Italy. In fact, though Umbria is known for producing large quantities of wine, and still offers high quality wines. Besides this, the estate has charming accommodations in villas for those who want to stay longer. Also on the property was an abandoned chapel that was now converted to a beautiful open hall for wine tasting, small banquets and those wanting to celebrate special occasions. There we would be served a variety of different wines with delicious finger foods such as sliced cold cuts and beautifully aged local cheeses. Although our time here was short, it was the perfect introduction for a wonderful Umbrian journey of discovery.

Lake Trasimeno

Aside from the northern Italy’s lakes that are fed by the Alps, Italy is generally not known for large inland bodies of water. To our surprise and delight, we would visit something totally unusual, Lake Trasimeno. This region is great for outdoor activities and believe it or not, semi-industrial fishing. Here we would visit the local fishing cooperative and take a boat ride with the fisherman, lay down fishing nets, visit Isola Polvese Nature Reserve, see a gigantic historic fortress, take a hike through the natural settings of the island, enjoy time on the beach, swim in soft water, taste delicious local food and by the end, we would rejoin the fisherman to bring in the daily catch.

To cap off this amazing day, we drove to the beautiful and well-maintained village of Monte del Lago, located on the shores of the lake. Here we would wander around the town streets while observing the locals gathering in friendly discussions. We would then have some sensational olive oil tasting at the Frantoio Fattoria Luca Palombaro and tour the historic facilities of this small batch oil producer. Finally, we finished our day with supper further up the hill at the Relais la Fattoria, a hotel and restaurant that had a magnificent panoramic view of the amazing lake and village. Staring up at the star-studded sky, I felt like I was living in a wonderful dream and we still had many more Umbrian experiences still to come.

Village of Bevagna

The medieval village of Bevagna is nothing short of spectacular. The original layout of the city still exists, including the fortified city walls, small lanes and passages, and centuries old homes. Of most interest is the town square that has the inspiring massive cathedral and many historic stone and brick buildings. We would visit many mediaeval workshops including a candle maker that uses the same processes and material as in centuries ago. Bevagna holds a very popular and well visited yearly festival celebrating its many years of history and culture where locals and visitors alike dress up in period costumes. We would spend our time here exploring the back alleys, village squares and stores before finally having a light lunch at Le Barbatelle restaurant that included local winds wines and wonderful cheeses.

Umbria bike ride

How far do you want to go was the question from our cycling guide? All the way, right to the top, let’s go to Vallo di Nera. We would leave our hotel on fantastic ebikes to explore the Umbrian countryside by negotiating the hilly terrain, passing through a pristine forest, along small rivers, over stone bridges, past lush farmland and spectacular sunflower fields and finally rode up a steep and winding road to reach the hilltop village of Vallo di Nera. A cooling breeze offset the suffocating 35-degree heat as we reached the highest crossable point. Before us was a view I cannot even attempt to describe. With the setting sun, we were in bliss within a tranquil Umbrian setting and I had to pinch myself to believe this amazing moment.

Truffle hunt

This will be another glorious day and with much anticipation we would participate in a black truffle hunt and then proceed to cooking classes with Primo, the owner and head chef of the Piermarini restaurant. Heading towards the nearby hills in a small car I felt a cold wet nose on my arm, looking behind me was an excited puppy who knew what was coming up and we would soon find out that truffle hunting was as much a science as it was an art, and the Black Truffles found on this private property would soon be in our plates. We would be treated to a family style tasting, with dishes prepared and served steaming hot from the kitchen and coupled with a variety of local wine. We would enjoy this amazing atmosphere and delicious dishes while standing and observing the chefs prepare the feast. Needless to say, this was another quintessential Umbrian moment.

Narni

To conclude this amazing Umbrian odyssey, we would travel to the city of Narni. Here we would visit a fascinating and recently discovered underground church and a historic torture chamber before visiting a former cathedral that was converted to a lecture hall for its university.

We would end our day in a cultural center with a private live performance by the very talented pianist, Cristiana Pegoraro, who plays many classics as well as her own songs throughout the world and is not only a gifted in her domain but also in charge of the popular and ever growing yearly Narni music festival. After the performance we were led to a massive outdoor terrace that is on high with a spectacular view of the forest in the Umbrian hills. With plenty of finger foods, great wines and a setting sun, I would observe a distant building that resembled a monastery. Having another perfect moment in Umbria, I reflected on this amazing trip through a special place in Italy, all we had seen and done and thought I was in a fairytale. This region gave many unique experiences and was an utterly fascinating destination that deserves a traveler’s time and attention.

www.umbriatourism.it

Two Perfect Umbrian Stays

Relais & Chateaux Borgo dei Conti

It was love at first sight; the Borgo dei Conti would be the perfect stay to begin our tour of beautiful Umbria. This property is old world opulence at its best as it was formally a private residence. A destination of its own, one can get lost in the hotel by relaxing next to the massive outdoor pool, using the spa facilities, exercise room, eating fantastic dishes at the onsite restaurant or wondering around the massive forested private trails. My room had all the modern amenities including a fabulous washroom and luxurious modern furniture. Richly decorated, it has artwork everywhere and the service, as expected, was flawless. In all, I felt that I was staying in lifestyle magazines.

www.borgodeicontiresort.com

Torre del Nera

Looking up, I stood in awe like in a pleasant dream. I would finely be staying in Italian hilltop village. The Torre del Nara hotel was situated within the small village of Scheggino mixed in with the other local residences. The hotels’ individual rooms and apartments were former family homes that were bought and renovated to their present state. To my delight, I would get a full house on two floors, richly decorated with beautiful and historic furniture and no less than two balconies that provided unforgettable views of the surrounding village and the Umbrian countryside. My rooms included a complete kitchen, full size living-room, a functioning fireplace, a sitting area, and spacious sleeping quarters. This property would also have a full Spa and sizable restaurant. Having a charged itinerary, I would cherish every moment while there.

www.torredelnera.it