Northern Ireland

Derry-Londonderry Shines in Derry Girls

by Cherie DeLory

Runaway hit sitcom, Derry Girls has everyone’s eyes on Derry-Londonderry. Northern Ireland’s Troubles have been over for more than 20 years, but the civil rights conflict figures as a backdrop in the outrageous dark comedy about an all-girls Catholic school. The series offers a glimpse into neighbourhoods like the Bogside, a predominately Catholic area on the City Side that was at the centre of the dispute. Derry-Londonderry has the Foyle River running through it, separating the City Side from the Water Side. The Bogside is known for its Free Derry peace murals emblazoned on the sides of buildings. The story of the civil rights movement is told at the Museum of Free Derry.

Derry-Londonderry is Northern Ireland’s second largest city, next to the capital of Belfast, but its population of 85,000 evokes a quiet town ambiance. The city built on linen shirt manufacturing hosts the biennial Maritime Foyle Festival, Ireland’s largest maritime festival, and has been a host port for the biennial Clipper Round the World Yacht race. Several restaurants participate in the Seafood Trail, making this the ideal time to indulge in fresh Irish catch of the day. A few of my favourites are Thompsons Restaurant in the Derry City Hotel, Browns in Town, Shipquay Hotel, The Bishop’s Gate Hotel (circa 1899), and The Beech Hill Hotel on the outskirts of town where you can enjoy your meal in a countryside setting.

No visit is complete without wandering the Walled City. It’s the only completely intact walled city in Ireland, totalling about a mile of atmospheric heritage stone wall. Take a historical tour with Martin McCrossan Walled City Walking Tour. Derry-Londonderry, or Derry as originally named, is the first planned city in Ireland, built between 1613 and 1619. The walls were built to protect the locals from settlers arriving from England and Scotland, and would later figure in the Great Siege of 1689. During the planning phase was when London was added to the name to reflect the Queen’s influence. Derry in year 546 was a monastic settlement founded by the Irish monk, Saint Columba, who to this day is one of three patron saints of Ireland. St. Columb’s Cathedral (circa 1633) is the oldest building in town, and home to the original keys of the city gates. Listen for the oldest peal bells in Europe.

Across the Peace Bridge footpath the stone walls continue around Ebrington Square, a former WW I and II marine barracks. It’s been undergoing an ambitious redevelopment project since the city hosted UK’s first Capital of Culture in 2013. Thriving Brewpub Walled City Brewery is the first listed building conversion. Ebrington Hotel and Maritime Museum are slated for completion in 2021.

Take time to explore the walking and cycling trails along the River Foyle. Venture beyond Ebrington Square and discover St. Columb’s Park and Heritage Trail. Get on the River Foyle for a canoe paddle with Loughs Agency, a marine and fisheries outfitter, or sail away with the Lough Foyle Yacht Club.

Hugging the River Foyle is the Translink Rail. One of travel documentarian Michael Palin’s recommendations for Great Railway Journeys of the World is the route from Derry-Londonderry to Colleraine. The scenic coastal and pastoral views continue to the seaside resort town of Portrush, host of this summer’s 2019 Open Championship.

www.visitderry.com