Cruise
Enjoying ‘The Sweet Life’ with Variety Cruises
A Dolce Vita voyage from Naples to Malta via Sicily
Article and photography by Nicholas Kontis
Southern Italy and adjacent Mediterranean lands carry a mystique that enchants even the most diehard devotees of European travel.
“Traveling at sea will be an unforgettable experience,” I was assured by my friend Claudio Meli, general manager of The Place Firenze in Florence. “The Italian soul, that we in the north dream of, certainly includes Amalfi and Sicilia, where life is at a slower pace. Just expect more people in the summer.”
I had just told Meli of my plan to travel the south of Italy by ship, from Naples to historic Malta. Typically, my travels to the sun-splashed Mediterranean occur in September and October, when summer tourism is winding down. Still, I couldn’t turn down an invitation from my favorite motor-yacht line, Variety Cruises, to sojourn on a trip that is suitably titled La Dolce Vita: “The Sweet Life.”
This epic cruise was my fourth sailing with Variety, known for the intimate experiences it offers. After flying to Naples in July, my wife and I boarded the state-of-the-art Voyager at 2 in the afternoon and quickly settled into conversations with other travelers who soon became friends. We looked forward to an itinerary that included stopovers at the star-studded Isle of Capri; under-the-radar Lipari, largest of the Aeolian Islands; the dramatic UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Taormina and Catania; ancient Syracuse, the “White City,” famed for its Greek roots and white architecture; and the nation of Malta, including the fairy-tale island of Gozo and its crown jewel, the bustling capital city of Valletta.
Passion for travel
Those who sail with Variety have an infectious passion for travel. It quickly became clear that we were not the only repeat guests. “We’re on our third Variety Cruise,” fellow passengers Renee and Doug Hook told us. “We love the small ships. On Variety, you don’t feel like an outside tourist. You become more immersed in the culinary experiences onboard, as well as the destinations at stopovers.”
The Connecticut couple’s reflections mirrored our own. “What’s nice about Variety is that you get to go closer to the shore, making it easy to become immersed in the destination,” they said. “On these smaller motor yachts, you can go into areas where you can’t on larger boats. The staff is fabulous and treats you so well. The dinners are an excellent time to meet people from all over the world. We like the swim stop in the middle of the sea where we can snorkel. You don’t have to be a certified diver to enjoy the sea.”
Many cruises cater to an older clientele. But with Variety, travelers range from younger couples who look forward to the port stops and smaller guest count, to seniors who prefer global exploration to stereotypical cruises. They travel for cultural immersion and adventure, like swim stops in the middle of nowhere.
As with my previous sailings, a Variety cruise is made exceptional by the guest experience, created by the onboard staff and crew.
Standing at the helm of the Voyager is Captain Orefeas (rhymes with Orpheus), who has been with the cruise line since 1996. He looked dapper in a snappy gold-button white suit when I meet him at the opening cocktail reception. “Our goal is to provide our guests with the best possible experience,” he told me. “We have 26 passengers and 34 crew members, including six on the bridge. That is more crew than passengers.”
Like a super yacht
The luxurious Voyager is a lot like a billionaire’s super yacht. The sleek, 223-foot mega ship accommodates as many as 72 guests in 36 cabins. In the main deck lounge, which has ample deck space for sunbathing even when it’s full, Serbian cruise director Ned gives daily briefings on the day’s events and stopovers. In Taormina, Sicily, folk musicians boarded the ship to serenade our small group. Each evening, guests congregated for drinks or a nightcap at an al fresco bar on the top deck. Some travelers also took advantage of a sauna, massage room and fitness equipment in a small spa.
At roughly 130 square feet, a Category B cabin on the main deck, with a pair of twin beds pushed together, was spacious enough for my wife and me. Floor-to-ceiling windows added to the spacious feel. The bathroom was large enough that we could use it at the same time, and the showers had excellent water pressure.
Greek Chef George, from the Peloponnese, led a talented team (including a pastry chef) that served two meals a day—breakfast and a Mediterranean fare dinner, featuring Italian and Greek dishes. Variety also presented themed meals, such as a lunch barbecue of gyros and souvlaki during our stop in Syracuse. My wife and I gravitated to a table that we shared with couples from Mexico and Spain.
Flexibility rules
Eduardo and Carmen, from Madrid and Cadiz, Spain, were on their eighth Variety cruise even though they were only in their mid-40s. “We always thought cruises were not for us, that we were too young,” Eduardo told me. “However, in 2018, we sailed with Variety to Iceland and fell in love with the concept of small-ship family travel. We like the fact that there are fewer people. Then we continued to sail in Greece.” Carmen added: “We love the boats, the stops, and the food. If you love something, why change?”
The doctrine of expedition cruises and small-ship sailing is to “be flexible.” As land-tour operators require shore excursions be of a minimum size, and our intimate group often was unable to match that requirement, most guests either hired guides or joined other tours. My wife and I mostly explored Capri, Sicily and Gozo independently. Because Italian maritime law does not permit swimming and jumping from ships in in Italian waters, Variety’s open-water swim stop in Malta, as we approached Gozo, was especially popular.
We disembarked in Malta and stayed there for a week. As with each of our other Variety sojourns, a sense of genuine warmth radiated throughout the journey. With an intimate group, you quickly mingle with the entire ship, becoming a family for a splendid week at sea. Our only regret was that we were unable to continue our journey to Africa.
