Italy
Four Flavors of the Amalfi Coast
Article and photography by Nicholas Kontis
For many generations, Italy’s romantic Amalfi Coast has left all takers spellbound and yearning for more. It’s astonishing that hill towns have been an inspiration for artists, filmmakers, and writers, from Ernest Hemingway and Oscar Wilde to German composer Richard Wagner. Thirty-two miles of picturesque villages, crystalline sea, hidden grottos, and jaw-dropping villas have lured a cast of international celebrities. In the sizzling ’60s, they included stunning stars like Italy’s own Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, and Claudia Cardinale, along with suave leading man Marcello Mastroianni. Rock icon Mick Jagger visited with his then-wife, Bianca; John Lennon and Yoko Ono also vacationed in the sun-kissed coastal calm.
Even with all this fanfare and numerous cross-Adriatic trips from my father’s hometown in Greece, I had somehow missed traveling through southern Italy before a Variety Cruises-small-ship sailing expedition from Naples to Malta. My friend Claudio Meli, general manager at the mansion-like JK Place hotel in Florence, thought it was a great idea. “Italy’s charm lies not only in our cities,” he counseled me. The Italian soul that I dream of includes Amalfi, where life is at a slower pace.”
A quartet of unforgettable towns, nestled west to east between Sorrento and Salerno, offers something for everyone. But it’s up to the individual traveler to determine which community suits his (or her) particular style of travel.
Positano: For some, the jewel is Positano. As Santorini is to the Greek islands, so is Positano to Italy: The idyllic port town’s elevated landscape features remarkable views of multi-layered cliffs cascading to boats in the harbor below. A sleepy village until 1953, American author John Steinbeck put it on the map with his Harper’s Bazaar story, “Positano Bites Deep.” The town is a shopper’s paradise; boutiques feature some of Italy’s finest linens, handmade sandals, and beautiful swimwear. Spiaggia Grande is the largest and busiest beach.
Praiano: North of Positano and west of Amalfi, laid-back Praiano is a popular choice for many. “It is way less touristy than Positano, more authentic and local,” said Pietro Assili, a Naples local and cultural journey curator. “It’s perfect if you just want to chill without missing out on anything. You’re literally 15 to 20 minutes away from the busiest hotspots, but you get to come back to peace and quiet.” Public buses run on a regular schedule, and boats are available for rental. If you’re into hiking or love crazy good views, the Path of the Gods starts pretty much from your doorstep.
Ravello: In 1880, Wagner immortalized the “magic garden of Klingsor” in his final opera, Parsifal. The German composer drew inspiration from the enchanting 13th-century Villa Rufolo estate, dramatically perched above the Tyrrhenian Sea. Ever since, Ravello has been known as the City of Music. Just four miles from bustling Amalfi, this cultural center is elegant and romantic, with epic views and opulent but quiet restaurants. Unlike other Amalfi towns, however, it’s not actually on the coast: It’s in the hills, requiring a taxi or shuttle ride to hit the beach.
Vietri Sul Mare: The far eastern gateway to the Amalfi Coast, 10 minutes from larger Salerno, is my personal favorite getaway. Vietri sul Mare has been famed for its ceramics since the 15th century. As the pace is definitely slower than in other Amalfi towns, locals appear more relaxed, even in the heart of high season. As you walk through the center of town, you’ll see storefronts and building facades lined with ceramic mosaics. There’s even a wall fountain made of Vietri ceramics. Vietri sul Mare is the only Amalfi town accessible by train from Naples, and can be easily reached by car via the A3 highway.
While the celebrated Amalfi Coast is a splendid destination year-round, I prefer to visit it before heavy tourist traffic arrives. I recommend following the “spring-fall rule”: If you come to Amalfi between April and mid-June, or between September and November, you’ll enjoy your visit more.
