Israel
Israel: The beating heart of the Middle East
by Daniel Smajovits
For some it’s the land of Milk and Honey. Others call it the Promise Land. Those in the high-tech sector have dubbed it Start-Up Nation and for the throngs of pilgrims, it’s simply the Holy Land. Regardless of the nickname, Israel is the crown jewel of the Middle East, a melting pot of history, culture, entertainment and pure bliss.
Whether it’s your first visit or you’re a regular, any trip to Israel will centre around Tel Aviv, the beating heart of the country. Nestled up against the Mediterranean Sea, while steeped in modern Israeli history, Tel Aviv is young, vibrant and full of flare. Fourteen kilometers of beaches make up the coastline, packed by beachgoers regardless of the day and season. While dozens of hotels line the beach, none have direct access due to the Tel Aviv Promenade. Two of the most popular spots to stay are the Dan Tel Aviv, which was recently renovated and boasts the famous colourful façade, designed by Israeli artist Yaacov Agam and the Hilton Tel Aviv, which is one of the largest properties in the city. Boutique hotels can be found in the streets close to the beach as well.
As most tourists spend countless hours in Israel either on a tour bus or walking, carve out at least one day to spend on or by the beach. Test your hand-eye coordination by joining the popular beach paddle-ball game of matkot, join the thousands who run up and down the promenade by day or night or simply pack a cooler with local beer (Goldstar or Maccabi), snacks and rent a chair. Regardless of your activity, you can’t go wrong on any one of Tel Aviv’s beaches.
Home to countless five-star restaurants with modern takes on Israeli and international cuisine, while in Tel Aviv, ensure to spend one of your meals indulging at the Shuk (market) HaCarmel, where locals and tourists flock for the freshest fruits, vegetables and pastries. Nearby Sarona Market is a modern take on the classic market, but with upscale restaurants and stores, perfect for an evening activity. Bars and restaurants surround Kikar Rabin and line Dizengoff and Rothschild Streets all open into the wee hours of the morning. The Old Port in North Tel Aviv is home to a number of restaurants and quickly becoming a popular spot as well.
Before you wear out your new pair of walking shoes in Jerusalem, break them in with two unique walking tours: a graffiti tour of Florentin and one of Jaffa. The Florentin neighbourhood has emerged as the home to Israel’s modern art scene, while Jaffa is the southernmost and oldest enclave of Tel Aviv and one of Israel’s truly mixed cities and also where you can find Arabs and Jews living and working together peacefully. While in Jaffa, ensure to sample the hummus from Abu Hassan, perhaps the best hummus in the country or even the world. Now a sit-down restaurant, the hummus dates itself back to the 1950s. The recipe was developed by Hassan’s mother and Hassan’s father once sold it on the streets of Ajami, a primary Arab neighbourhood of Jaffa.
With your shoes worn in, only an hour drive from Tel Aviv is Jerusalem, Israel’s capital. It is here that the rich and intertwined histories of Judaism, Christianity and Islam converge in the Old City, where millions of tourists flock to their respective holy sites and immerse themselves in the past. Surrounding the Old City walls is a hip and modern metropolis where the Orthodox and Unorthodox live and work side by side.
While you can get lost in the cobblestone streets of the Old City on your own, we recommend a guided tour to ensure you make the most of your precious time. All licensed Israeli tour guides must complete courses that cover pre-history through to the modern State of Israel as well as archeology, geography and more. Every organized tour will cover the Old City’s four quarters: Jewish, Christianity, Muslim and Armenian and visits to the Western Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulchre and some also include the Temple Mount (Dome of the Rock). Most tours start outside the city walls and cover modern Jerusalem as well.
With or without a guide, a must on any visit to Jerusalem are trips to The Israel Museum, home to the Dead Sea Scrolls, and to Yad Vashem, the world Holocaust Remembrance Center. Both museums will complement your time in the Old City and provide you with the complete perspective of Israel and the Jewish people’s history and place in the modern world.
Taking a break from touring, no visit to Jerusalem would be complete without a trip to Mahane Yehuda Market. If your schedule allows for it, stop by on a Friday morning for the pre-Sabbath hustle and bustle which will put your senses into overdrive. Juxtaposing the Friday atmosphere, return any Sunday through Thursday night where the shops convert into bars and restaurants. By day, a must is Marzipan for their wide array of pastries, including their famous rugelach and right across the street of the market is Hummus Shel Tehina, one of the best hummusias in the country. At night, grab a drink at Beer Bazaar, Casino de Paris or Shuka.
Modern Jerusalem includes the upscale Mamila Mall, home to luxurious shops and restaurants and the gentrified train station, HaTachana, which now boasts a number of restaurants and bars as well as is home to many concerts and events.
As one of the most visited cities in the world, Jerusalem also has its fair share of both luxurious and historic hotels. From the only hotel for Presidents and world leaders in the King David to the modern Waldorf Astoria, Inbal or David Citadel – there is no shortage of lavish spots to lay your head.
Unlike the rest of Israel, Jerusalem shuts down for the Sabbath, lasting from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown. Consider spending this day at the Dead Sea, a 90-minute drive south, where plenty of hotels and spas will allow you to enjoy a day of rest and relaxation or join the locals back on the beach in Tel Aviv.
True to one of its nicknames as the Start-Up Nation, the high-tech sector in Israel has developed the perfect way for tourists and locals alike to experience the country. Before you visit, add DD – +972 52-892-1079 – to your contact list. While a phone number to you, DD is an Artificial Intelligence platform that will guide you to the best restaurant, club, bar or activity of your choice. The AI will begin to ask questions to learn your preferences and then send you on your way with all the information you need, ensuring that after only a few messages back and forth, you have the perfect recommendation or tip. This free service is a great way to help you explore Tel Aviv like the locals do – a must use while in Israel.
Tel Aviv and Jerusalem only scratch the surface of modern Israel. From the adventure capital and resort town of Eilat in the south to the wineries in the Golan Heights, the country offers something for everyone.
