Bolivia
Let the Adventure Begin in Magnificent, Magical and Mystical Bolivia
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
Ten days, five regions, one country. Bolivia is a gem in the rough and it was mine to cut and polish. For many years I have had it in my sights and now, let the adventure begin. On this whirlwind tour we would miss Bolivia’s biggest city, and also most well known city, as Santa Cruz and La Paz would have to wait for another day. Also, plans for a future visit would include the amazing Amazon as there was just not enough time for these three great places.
Instead, we would visit some out-of-the-way places, less known destinations, and a couple of incredible natural beauties. Landing in Santa Cruz, we would find our way to Villa Montes, then to the south to wine country in Camargo, reach higher altitudes in the mining city of Potosi, to the Uyuni Salt Flats and then finally finish off in Lake Titicaca. All along the way we would be thrilled and mesmerized and within hours we were calm and tranquil. Bolivia has a way of thrilling and chilling visitors in many different ways in short periods of time.
Villa Montes
We had never heard of Villa Montes, but were strongly urged to visit. Somewhat out of the way and barely on the tourist map, Villa Montes sure packs a punch. Here we would visit an army base that is a couple of miles from its Paraguay border and where decades ago there was hostility between the neighbours in a yearlong war. Peace is now kept, but this challenging and dramatic period where Bolivia fought for its own right to exist is an enactment of this war and is presented to tourists. Unique in its presentation, it was an outdoor theatrical show that transformed us to a period many generations ago.
For something completely different, we would visit at the ‘Eco Parque Don Pastor’, a ranch. In North America we would call the hired hands cowboys, in Argentina they are well known as gauchos, Here they are ‘Chacos’ and what a thrill it was seeing them in action corralling the livestock. On this picture perfect morning we would be greeted by the resident parrot, see a whole pork being roasted on open flames, participate in a tradition of drinking freshly squeezed cow milk mixed with a local alcohol and then to see a traditional local dance while musicians played wonderful Bolivian country music.
Still more diversity as we visited small Indigenous communities and tasted incredibility delicious locally caught river fish at the family run Gaybo restaurant. We found adventure at the Cabaña Turística “El Angosto” with rafting through a stunning canyon, rock climbing and a cable car ride over fast moving waters. All this and more can be found in a small distance from each other. Our stay that night was at the cities best, the fabulous Hotel Boutique El Rancho Olivo.
Road trip
Getting to Camargo from Villa Montes was a trill on its own. Known as the ‘World’s most dangerous highway’ is something I would attest too and strongly agree that this is an adventure to be had. Imagine this: a setting sun, a dirt road that clings onto the side of a mountain, shear drop on one side with no car railing, and you have a vision of what an exciting and at times heart stopping drive it was. At one point, a huge truck came from around the corner and with both drivers breaking, we found ourselves face-to-face. Reasonableness and smart negotiating had us driving backwards while the truck driver carefully and slowly passed us while only mere inches from the sheer drop. We drove this highway because it was the only real route to take but some willingly come to ride bikes downhill here for a thrill and bragging rights.
Camargo
This small, sleepy town of Camargo can be crossed within minutes by car and it’s worth a visit for the authentic feel and quiet charm. Camargo has a beautiful cathedral, and its central square is used for local produce in the town markets. The surrounding area has fabulous desert hills and mountains and is well known for its wines and spirits. We would visit one such place at the Bodega Cepa De Oro that is known for growing the highest altitude grapes in some very rough soil. We ate lunch at this winery of local and delicious Bolivian style meals. Tasting the wine and spirits would prove that the grapes that have concentrated juices produce a very unique taste and body structure.
We would then visit a couple of Singani distilleries that produced the countries favorite liquor. The San Pedro distillery, built in a historic colonial style building, continues the local monks recipe for beautiful Singani liquor originally for the mine workers. This day was like being in a fairytale, with a sunny blue sky, freshness in the air and dry desert surroundings, made for a delightful and memorable stay and tour of the Camargo region.
Potosi
Camargo was a gentle journey uphill to higher altitudes and by driving to Potosi, we would now be entering the Andes. At 4000 meters, this mining city is considered the highest city in the world.
The Spanish came here looking for gold, but as luck would have it, found lots of silver. This area was mined 500 years ago and is still today. There is plenty of silver as well as other sorts of metals and is the source of Potosi’s main economy. It was once the richest place in the world. So hilly is the city that you can barely walk a block without going up or down hill. We had to pace ourselves as the air is thin and breathing is difficult and muscle cramps are common. Our enthusiastic guide was formally a mine worker and explained to us how dangerous and demanding the job was. Even though he worked hard every day for years, he struggled to make any income and decided to lead tours instead and show the best of his fascinating city. Of interest in Potosi: an underground mine tour, a visit to the historic mints and museums, the cathedral and churches and the markets.
Uyuni
Incredible, unbelievable and breathtaking, these are just a few words to describe this ultra-unique experience. No trip to Bolivia would be complete without a visit to the Uyuni Salt Flats. High in the altitude of the Andes, the receding oceans millions of years ago left seawater that once evaporated would leave tons of salt as far as the eye can see. Known as barren grounds, this is a desert with less than 10% humidity. I thought nothing could possibly live here yet in the islands of the salt flats, there are cactuses that grow by less than a centimeter per year.
The flats are a major tourist attraction, and for obvious reasons. Its natural beauty can easily be the highlight of our tour and with a 4×4, an experienced driver and knowledgeable guide of Iamigo tours we would find ourselves in yet another fairytale setting. The scenery was out of this world, like something from a distant planet. With plenty of challenges, such as thin air, and lots of UV rays we would thoroughly enjoy this spiritual and mystical place snapping up photos of the flats, the islands, and the incredible and stunning setting sun.
Besides the flats, there is railway car graveyard. This would be yet another unique experience to see dozens of locomotives and railway cars sitting idle and rusting in the Uyuni desert. Just another day of amazing Bolivian diversity.
Lake Titicaca
Another day in Bolivia, yet another high altitude destination, and another unique experience. Now in northern Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world and is shared between Peru and Bolivia as tourists traverse both countries to get the most and best of these two amazing destinations. Historically, Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the Inca Empire, and a one-hour boat ride would bring us to Isla del Sol, the heart of the Inca Empire and a spiritual place for these people. The island is tranquil and a great place to relax and reflect on the natural, beautiful, and serene surroundings. Also found here are the magnificent ruins of the Tiwanaku people that preceded the Inca. For the energetic, there are trails that cross this island leading to some of amazing historic treasure while at the same time giving incredible vistas of this lake in the clouds.
On the shore, the town of Copacabana itself has a remarkable Cathedral, plenty of tourists’ shops and restaurants serving the specialty of fish caught from the lake.
To any serious travelers, Bolivia is a must visit destination. It has a little of something different not found anywhere else. Being landlocked and bordering five other great destinations: Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, and Chile, it has something in common with all its neighbours. Our trip was both invigorating and challenging, and in the end, it was a great adventure with many wonderful memories. For its many incredible sites, it is easily a standalone destination, or can be combined as a multi-country tour. Either way, Bolivia will stand out as being: magnificent, magical and mystical!
