Stay & Play

Sacred Connections at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Izumo

Article and photography by Steve Gillick

When the Hoshino Resorts KAI Izumo refers to their location in Shimane Prefecture, Japan, as “The Dwelling Place of the Gods”, it’s not just a clever marketing slogan. But before we checked into this luxury boutique hot spring ryokan (a traditional Japanese Inn), we visited two places that would unknowingly complement the resort’s heavenly connection.

The first was the Izumo Taisha Shrine, the first Shinto Shrine in all of Japan, which is connected with the Japanese creation story of the gods Izanagi and Izanami and their offspring: Amaterasu, the goddess of the Sun, Susanoo, the god of the storms and Tsukiyomi, the god of the moon.

Not far from the Shrine, in the city of Izumo, we visited the Asahi Shuzo brewery and sampled some of their excellent sakes, before hopping on the train to the resort hot spring town of Tamatsukuri Onsen, where a short taxi ride took us to the KAI Izumo.

The stone lantern and brilliant red Japanese Maple tree in the garden were the perfect venue for our greeting at the resort. Once inside, a second garden just off the main lobby features manicured trees and a tranquil pond. An indoor bright orange bridge connects the lobby with an art gallery, showcasing the works of local crafts people.

The 24 rooms in the ryokan are classic Japanese style (Washitsu) with tatami (straw) mats, sliding doors, an alcove displaying a statue of Ebisu, the god of Fishermen and of Luck (one of the Seven Gods of Fortune), and a low table in the middle of the room, with cushions for sitting. The bedding, consisting of mattresses, futons and pillows would be laid out after dinner. And one of the hallmarks of the resort: our very own, private outdoor hot spring bath.

The Inn also has a ‘public’ hot spring where, after soaking in the hot, soothing waters, you can prolong the tranquility with a visit to a small lobby with massage chairs overlooking another serene garden, and complimentary drinks of Sake and lemon-infused water.

The dinner menu was a reflection of local seasonal specialties including Shijimi clams, pumpkin soup, smoked duck, sashimi, sea cucumber and more. The visual presentation was stunning!

In the evening, the Ryokan staff performed in ‘Iwami Kagura’, a light-hearted presentation of local Japanese legends. In our story, Susanoo the god of the Storms, recently banished from the heavens, met an old couple who cried that their seven daughters had been eaten by the mysterious serpent Yamata-no-Orochi. Now the couple’s eighth daughter, Kushinadahime, was at risk. Susanoo created an extra strong sake, which caused the serpent to fall into a deep sleep. Susanoo killed it, married Kushinadahime, and one of their descendants is said to be enshrined at Izumo Taisha Shrine. So ‘the land of the gods’ story and our experience in the area, came full circle (with sake thrown in for good measure).

Yuji Miho, the manager of the Hoshino Resorts KAI Izumo, noted that the special connection with the gods in Shimane Prefecture is mirrored in the tranquil ambiance of the hotel’s design: the gardens, the hot spring, the food and even the evening story telling. An overnight stay here is a very special experience.

www.kai-ryokan.jp/en/izumo