USA
SoCal Desert Road Trip
Article and Photography by Jennifer Merrick
For many, a California road trip is synonymous with Highway 1, the iconic route that hugs the Pacific coast. Beautiful to be sure, but this winter-weary Canadian couple craved desert climes, big skies, wide-open roads and off-the-beaten track adventures. And that’s exactly what we found when we rolled inland on the desert roads of the Golden State.
Santa Clarita
Easily accessible at only an hour north of Los Angeles International Airport, we couldn’t have asked for a better starting point than this valley town. The rolling green hills, speckled with the purples and yellows of the spring desert flowers, greeted us as we drove in. Once in town, the wide main street and historic buildings of the Old Town Newhall neighbourhood looked and felt exactly what a western desert town should except with the added charms of independent shops, breweries and wineries. With so much character, and this being California, we couldn’t help but feel we were part of a movie set. So it wasn’t surprising to learn that Santa Clarita has been the setting for numerous TV shows and movies, including Heroes, Dukes of Hazards and Twilight.
Right in the heart of town was the William S. Hart Park and Museum, a 150-acre site that had once been the ranch of the western silent film director it’s named after. Scenic hiking trails showcased the high desert vegetation, an interesting mix of cacti and hardwoods. We climbed to the top for a panoramic view of the town with the distant mountains peeking through colourful blooms.
A 20-minute drive away were Vasquez Rocks, striking boulder formations that have been featured in countless movies and TV shows, including Star Trek, Blazing Saddles and The Flintstones. When we arrived at this 932-acre Los Angeles County Park (which like Hart Park is free), the ranger asked if we were here to see ‘the big, famous rocks’. Indeed we were, and he pointed the way to the interpretive trail that led to the geological wonder. As we approached, the tiny moving specks focused into climbers scrambling up the dramatic jagged rocks that looked alien, especially compared to the time-worn rounded peaks surrounding them.
Placerita Canyon was another remarkable nature park for both its history and natural beauty. The Heritage Trail led to the ‘Oak of the Golden Dream’, marking the spot where gold was discovered in 1842. Located in the San Gabriel Mountain, the public park has an interpretive center and seven marked trails. We chose the picturesque Canyon Trail and once again found ourselves awed by the colourful combo of forest and desert flora.
Main Street in Old Town Newhall had no shortage of tasty eats and refreshing libations. Draconum Brewery had a casual outdoor beer garden with a large selection of brews made on the premises and classic pub fare. More upscale was Reyes Winery on Main, where we indulged in vino and tapas with a view of the surrounding mountains on their rooftop patio.
Also on Main Street was the Hotel Lexon, whose western theme, modern style, amenities and spacious outdoor patio made it the ideal base to explore it all.
Joshua Tree National Park
From Santa Clarita, we drove an incredibly scenic three hours to Joshua Tree National Park, a 792,000-acre reserve revered for its ancient rock formations and Mojave Desert vegetation, including its namesake, the Joshua tree. Standing at up to nine feet, these succulent plants captivated us, silhouetted against the bright blue skies and surreal rock sculptures of the park.
As we hiked Hidden Valley and Split Rock trails, we couldn’t help but see shapes and forms in the magical landscape: dragons, ghosts, skulls, giants and even a smiling fish to name a few. Keys View, the highest vehicle-accessible point in the park at 5185 feet above sea level, was our final stop. We soaked in the expansive view of the Coachella Valley with its pink-hued mountainous landscape shaped by the movement of plates along the San Andreas fault. In the distance, we could faintly see the mirage-like peak of Mount Jacinto and Palm Springs, our next destination.
Palm Springs
Zany: amusing, unconventional and idiosyncratic. From its 26-foot statue of Marilyn Monroe to its tiki bars, happy hours and Hollywood glitz, this definition describes Palm Springs to a tee. But it’s also beautiful with bright pink bougainvillea lining the streets and Mount Jacinta dramatically posing as a backdrop to it all.
We biked like a star on a tour led by the Palm Springs Historical Society. This desert oasis has the 2nd largest collection of Hollywood homes outside of Tinsel Town; and as we pedaled along the wide streets, we learned about its glamourous history, modernist architecture and juicy tidbits of local gossip of past inhabitants like Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra and Elvis.
While there was no shortage of happy hours, eateries and patio options, tiki-styled establishments matched the town’s live and let live attitude. Our first foray into this Palm Springs tradition was at the colourful and authentic Bootleggers Tiki, where we sipped Tropicolado and Gilligan Ate the Skipper cocktails. Fittingly, our last meal was at The Reef, where we enjoyed its generous portions and playful cocktails among the tropical décor.
A 15-minute revolving tram ride to Mount San Jacinto State Park took us up 3000 feet and through five unique geological zones from the Mexican Sonoran Desert to the alpine wilderness -in other words, from cacti to snow-dusted pines. The Desert View Loop proved true to its name revealing panoramas of the rose peaks of the Coachella Valley, made even more magical by the breezy mountain mist that shrouded the landscape.
Temecula Valley
An hour and a half drive away was wine country. Not Napa or Sonoma, but the lesser-known Temecula Valley, whose vineyard and vistas combined with its serene vibe, was the blissful finale of our SoCal road trip.
Grapes thrive in this region’s ocean breezes, cool evenings and hot days, and approximately 50 wineries make Temecula their home. We stayed at Carter Estate Winery (see page 55 in the Stay and Play section for more details) and soaked up the sunshine and a vineyard view from our outdoor patio. The view of surrounding mountains and high-flying red-tailed hawks from the terrace of Altisima Winery was enjoyed with a Spanish-inspired menu and wines. At Fazeli Cellars, the mountain view was paired with Persian-fusion cuisine, an award-winning shiraz and an interior space reminiscent of a European village.
Time slowed down in Temecula, and we lingered at every stop. Strolling around Old Town, the historic downtown district, we poked around the speciality shops, taking time to smell the lavender at Temecula Lavender Co., taste the olive oil at Temecula Olive Oil Co. and hunt for treasures at Fourth Street Antiques. Like Santa Clarita, the western influence was evident in the wooden buildings that had gone through multiple incarnations in their lifetime. The saloons, churches and warehouses of yesterday have been transformed into happening restaurants, and we indulged in smoky wings and pork belly salad at Devilicious and reveled in the lively patio scene and good eats at 1909 Temecula.
The soaring highlight of the trip was a hot air balloon excursion with Grape Escapes. We rose above the clouds, and I could imagine we were in a picture of heaven surrounded by blue skies and with a white cotton blanket below us. Floating back down through the clouds, the landscape once again emerged: the hilly vineyards below, Mount San Jacinto Mountains to the east and the faint outline of the Pacific Ocean in the west. Perhaps another time, we’ll travel along its coast or maybe not. Our desert road trip filled our winter-weary Canadian hearts with awe, wonder, fun, sunshine and adventure. Who could ask for more from a road trip?
