Stay & Play

Stay & Play at these two Exceptional Hotels in Charlevoix, Quebec

by Jennifer Merrick

It all started with a big bang. More than 300 million years ago, an asteroid crashed into the Charlevoix region, forming its remarkable landscape that is now a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Today the crater walls are tree-covered mountains that create a natural wonderland, especially when it’s combine with the gorgeous sight of the mighty St. Lawrence River. Located approximately 90 minutes northeast of Quebec City, there’s plenty to explore. During a fun-packed long weekend we discovered the Isle-aux-Coudres, a small island that’s big on character. We strolled through the village of Baie St. Paul with its numerous art galleries and boutiques, and even boarded a helicopter for a memorable birds-eye-view of Charlevoix’s out-of-this-world landscape.

But I have to admit there were times it was difficult to leave the hotels. Truly hard. Why? Because both properties we stayed at – Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu and Le Germain Hotel Charlevoix —were destinations themselves. Farm-to-table cuisine, pampering spas, local history, gorgeous views, welcoming décor and a host of other amenities and services made for unforgettable stays.

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu

Aptly referred to as the Castle on the Cliff, this historic property sits idyllically between the Laurentian Mountains and the St. Lawrence River near the town of La Malbaie. The grand hotel was established during the ‘white boat era’ at the turn of the century, when well-to-do tourists would travel down the river from the cities and stay for the season. Elvis Presley, Angelina Jolie, Charlie Chaplin and former US president William Howard Taft are among its celebrity guest alumni. You may think this sounds a tad pretentious, but Le Manoir is anything but.

We felt welcomed from the moment we arrived from the bright fire in the foyer to the view of the St. Lawrence in our rooms. Everywhere we turned there was some curiosity to admire whether it was the historic paintings and photographs, antique furniture or wooden sporting equipment used at the beginning of the century.

Be sure to savour a meal at the Table et Terroir restaurant, which prides itself on their fresh and locally sourced menu and is part of La route des saveurs de Charlevoix. It was an exceptional meal with highlights that included lamb ragout, Charlevoix’s famous cheeses and a veritable smorgasbord of mouth-watering desserts.

Spa, casino, indoor and outdoor pools, bicycle rentals and even horse-drawn carriages are some of the activities on offer. The hotel is particularly known for its golf courses, perched dramatically on the edge of the cliff overlooking the river.

www.fairmont.com/richelieu-charlevoix

Le Germain Hotel Charlevoix

Built by Daniel Gaulthier, a founder of Cirque du Soleil, this property, situated on a former farm, manages to combine a stylish and contemporary design with an atmosphere of warmth that peacefully complements its rural surrounding. Attention to detail is evident from the exquisite meals at Les Labours and fresh bread at La Patesserie to the pillow cases made by nuns from a local convent. It’s minutes away from the center of Baie St. Paul and one of the stations of Train de Charlevoix that departs from Quebec City.

A highlight of our stay was the Spa du Verger, a classic Quebec Nordic spa. Our circuit began with the eucalyptus steam room and took us through the hot and cold outdoor pools, offering much-needed relief from our outdoor activities.

But mostly, we loved the rooms themselves. Our loft-styled accommodation in the Le Clos building had high ceilings, exposed wood, a large inviting bath tub and a chaise lounge tucked beside the window. A perfect reading spot even if I did get distracted by the horses in the field outside the window.

Perhaps you can now understand why it was difficult to leave these hotels even if the beauty of Charlevoix beckoned.