Cruise
Three Generations, One River: Cruising the Rhine Aboard A-ROSA SENA
by Olivia Liveng
Suggesting a river cruise with my family—a nearly three-year-old, a spry 83-year-old, and myself—raised a few eyebrows back home. “Isn’t that for retirees?” a friend asked. I wasn’t sure myself, but curiosity and a rare alignment of schedules pushed us to book anyway.
Düsseldorf: A Modern Classic
We started in Düsseldorf, where the Ruby Luna Hotel became our base camp—this part of the city hums with midcentury energy and sleek confidence. You’re within walking distance of the Rhine promenade, and it’s impossible to ignore the contrast: young families picnicking under willows, cyclists zipping past, art students sketching the riverside, old-timers staking out their favorite bench. Ruby Luna itself is clever—airy, polished, and a little playful, which is to say, Aksel, my son, was in heaven. Hanne, his great-grandmother, appreciated that she could be downtown in minutes without having to flag a taxi or decipher transit schedules.
We’d wander from café to gallery, stopping for dense chocolate cake or a tart altbier (for the grownups). Düsseldorf’s Altstadt doesn’t traffic in postcard prettiness so much as lively authenticity—beer halls, bric-a-brac shops, kinetic squares.
Life on Board: The Real Face of Modern River Cruising
The A-Rosa Sena, our home for the week, is a far cry from the stereotypical image of a river cruise. Instead of quiet hallways and genteel boredom, the ship buzzes with a sense of friendly motion. Couples, friend groups, and families like ours fill the spaces, creating a lively atmosphere.
Cabins are generously sized for river standards; big windows let you spy the ever-shifting Rhine scene—a barge here, a fairy-tale town there. Unpacking for the week felt oddly freeing; I could finally stow away the suitcases and settle into a rhythm. Mornings meant sunlight through the window and the slow realization that we’d woken up somewhere new. Breakfasts were easy—plenty of fruit, eggs to order, pastries that rivaled anything onshore. There was no “hurry up and wait” feeling—just an easy, communal start to the day.
In the mornings, Aksel eagerly joined the supervised pirate-themed “Kids Club”, a rare find on a river cruise, where he made friends and had a blast. The top-deck baby pool, another unexpected luxury on a river cruise, was a constant source of joy for Aksel, ensuring he was always in high spirits. Meanwhile, I took advantage of the Sena’s impressive wellness area, complete with a real sauna and skilled therapists who could transport you to the beaches of Bali with their treatments.
Afternoons were for excursions or slow hours reading on deck, the water glinting past. The complimentary e-bikes, lined up each morning, gave us independence at each port. Sometimes we’d join a group tour, but often it was more fun to make our discoveries. Evenings unfolded at their own pace. We’d dress up a little for dinner, never formal but never sloppy. The food was a highlight: unfussy yet fresh, with plenty for picky eaters – including an entire kids’ buffet, perfect for Aksel – and more adventurous palates. The staff knew when to bring out the crayons and when to bring out the wine list. Live music sometimes drifted up from the lounge, setting a pleasant tone and ensuring a lively yet refined ambiance.
What stands out, looking back, is the sense of autonomy on board. Hanne could retreat to the lounge and watch the Rhine scroll by for hours, content in her world. Aksel made friends in the playroom. I could carve out time for a sauna or a book. We were together, but never on top of each other, and all each of us had moments of privacy, which is so vital on a multigenerational trip.
Antwerp: Where Old Stones Meet New Cool
Antwerp made a quick case for itself. The walk from the boat into the city center is easy, and soon enough you’re standing in Grote Markt, the square lined with gabled guildhouses. There are chocolate shops everywhere; we did our best to find the “best” (and, spoiler, everyone had an opinion!) The Cathedral of Our Lady was both grand and, thankfully, cool inside —a good place for Hanne to sit and for Aksel to spot the details in the stained glass. We squeezed in a stroll at the Antwerp Zoo, one of Europe’s oldest, where the giraffes and playgrounds offered a break from architecture and history.
Rotterdam: Dutch Grit with a Green Heart
Rotterdam was a delightful surprise. It might not have been my first choice, but that’s the beauty of cruising-it expands your horizons. The skyline is a modern marvel, but the true Rotterdam is found at street level: food stalls, bike lanes, and neighborhoods that feel both experimental and lived-in. I joined a guided A-Rosa bike tour and weaved through green parks, along canals, and into neighborhoods that felt authentically local. Even Hanne, content to explore the Markthal for cheese samples and people-watching, couldn’t deny Rotterdam’s infectious energy.
Amsterdam: Canals, Bikes, and a City That Gets Under Your Skin
Amsterdam’s no secret, but even on a brief port stop, it delivers. We boarded a canal boat; Hanne watched the city glide by, and Aksel shouted out every swan and houseboat. The flower market, narrow lanes lined with independent boutiques, and impromptu cheese tastings filled the rest of the day. The best moments came not from sightseeing but from simply sitting by a canal with coffee, soaking up the city’s rhythm. With an overnight stay in town, we had the rare luxury of time—ample opportunity to linger over stroopwafels in hidden bakeries and wander through the city’s standout museums without rushing, ticking off everything on our wish list and still finding space for spontaneous detours.
Cologne: A Skyline That Ends With a Toast
Cologne felt like a celebratory last chapter. We checked into the 25hours Hotel The Circle—a retro-futuristic spot that’s both hip and comfortable. The city’s centerpiece, the twin-spired cathedral, dominated our wandering. We explored side streets and local bakeries, and in the evening, took the elevator up to NENI, our hotel’s rooftop restaurant. The view—Cologne Cathedral lit up after dark—is reason enough to linger over another glass of wine and some hummus (the restaurant is Israeli cuisine, after all!)
Reflections on the River
Traveling with three generations isn’t always effortless, but on the Rhine, it rarely felt like work. Onboard, everyone had space—literal and metaphorical—to find their rhythm. The A-Rosa Sena’s real achievement isn’t just clever design; it’s creating an environment where a toddler, a great-grandmother, and everyone in between can move at their own pace. The lack of pressure—no need to squeeze in every sight, no rush to catch a bus or a flight—meant we could be fully present.
There’s a special kind of magic in seeing the world through your child’s eyes, but there’s also deep comfort in knowing your elders are content. Our days flowed as easily as the river itself: together, but never forced. In the quiet hours—watching windmills slip by, trading stories over dessert, or simply walking through a new city at dusk—I realized this is what multigenerational travel should feel like.
A river cruise, it turns out, isn’t about age at all. It’s about time—how you spend it, and with whom. And for one slow, extraordinary week, we spent it precisely right.
