Cruise
Unfiltered Danube: A River Cruise Aboard Viking Ullur Through Eastern Europe’s Past and Present
Article by Judi Cohen, photography by Judi Cohen and Viking
My husband and I recently embarked on an 11-day cruise along the Danube River aboard the 190-passenger Viking Ullur. The Passage to Eastern Europe itinerary, took us through five countries—Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, and Hungary—in regions we knew little about before our trip. Unlike the well-traveled parts of Western Europe, the Eastern stretch of the Danube offered a more authentic experience, from medieval castles and remnants of communism to vibrant modern cities and deeply rooted traditions.
Life Aboard Viking Ullur
The Viking Ullur served as a comfortable and stylish home with its chic Scandinavian design and understated elegance. Our Veranda stateroom (Cabin 227) was bright and spacious, providing ample storage and counter space in both the bedroom and bathroom. We spent little time in our cabin during the day, preferring to take in the passing scenery and panoramic views from the airy Aquavit Terrace, the Lounge, or the Sun Deck.
Meals were served in the Dining Room, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and a choice of family-style seating or smaller tables. We often chose to dine in the more intimate Aquavit Terrace and quickly became friendly with other guests who frequented the space. The food was beautifully presented by attentive staff and reflected the flavours and traditions of the countries we visited along the way.
Captivating Romania: Bucharest and the Iron Gates
We began our journey in Bucharest, a city that surprised us with its vibrant energy and eclectic mix of architecture. From grand boulevards lined with neoclassical buildings to communist-era apartment blocks and modern skyscrapers, the city’s diverse landscape reflects its complex history. The Palace of the Parliament was a highlight—an imposing symbol of the Ceausescu regime’s excesses. As one of the largest and heaviest buildings in the world, it was both impressive and sobering, a stark reminder of the country’s recent past.
In contrast, Bucharest’s Lipscani district, the old town, felt charming and lively. Narrow cobblestone streets were lined with cafes, boutiques, and street performers. We also visited the Jewish Quarter, where we found well-preserved synagogues and libraries filled with photos and documents from before World War II. It was a moving experience, providing a glimpse into the once-thriving Jewish community.
Sailing through the Iron Gates, a series of dramatic gorges between Romania and Serbia, was one of the most breathtaking experiences of the cruise. We rose early to watch Captain Vladamir navigate the Iron Gate 1 Lock, the largest on the Danube. Steep cliffs rose majestically on either side of the river, covered in dense forests. The Decebalus sculpture, a massive carving of the last king of Dacia, towered over the river, bearing silent witness to the region’s ancient history. A shore excursion to the Golubec Fortress by foot capped off a spectacular day of cruising.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Destinations
Our itinerary featured several lesser-known stops that are often bypassed by other European river cruises. In Vidin, Bulgaria our Viking city tour took us by the Baba Vida Fortress—the only fully preserved medieval castle in Bulgaria, while we made our way to the Belogradchik Rocks and Fortress for an invigorating hike. Later that day we visited a beautifully restored former synagogue. Once a vibrant center for the Jewish community, it is now a community center. Standing inside, surrounded by artifacts, paintings, and religious books, I was reminded of the cultural heritage that existed before World War II.
The Scars of Conflict in Croatia
Our visit to Osijek, Croatia, offered a powerful look at the aftermath of the Yugoslav Wars. The historic Citadel of Tvrda, with its cobblestone streets and Baroque architecture, stood in sharp contrast to surrounding buildings still marked by bullet holes and shattered windows.
Discovering Serbian Culture in Belgrade
Belgrade, the lively capital of Serbia, was a city of contrasts. Its bustling markets, vibrant cafes, and energetic nightlife contrasted with the somber remnants of its war-torn past. We visited the Kalemegdan Fortress, perched high above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, as well as the majestic Church of Saint Sava.
In the evening, we explored Skadarlija, the Bohemian District, on a Viking shore excursion, enjoying traditional Serbian dishes accompanied by live music. The sounds of accordions filled the air as locals sang and danced, creating an atmosphere that was both joyful and welcoming.
Hungarian Heritage: From Kalocsa to Budapest
Our journey continued into Hungary, where we stopped in Kalocsa, a small town known for its paprika and vibrant folk art. We toured a local museum dedicated to paprika, learning about its significance in Hungarian cuisine. The embroidered floral tapestries reminded me of growing up in a traditional Hungarian home in Canada.
The grand finale of our cruise was our arrival in Budapest. The city’s stunning architecture, a mix of Gothic, Baroque, and Art Nouveau styles, captivated us instantly. We toured the Castle District, admired the colorful roof of Matthias Church, and took in the spectacular view of the Parliament building from Fisherman’s Bastion.
Our visit to the former Jewish Ghetto was a powerful reminder of Hungary’s rich but tragic Jewish history. In the National Art Gallery, we viewed a special exhibit titled My Story: Early Memories of the Holocaust in the Works of Eyewitness Artists. The stories of survival and loss were deeply moving and provided a somber yet important perspective.
Reflections on a Raw and Honest Journey
This Danube cruise was unlike any we had experienced before. It wasn’t the fairy-tale journey of castles and palaces we had imagined. Instead, it was an authentic exploration of a region shaped by conflict, political turmoil, and cultural resilience. The remnants of communist-era life gave our trip a deeper meaning, offering a unique view of a less polished but real part of Europe.
Travel isn’t always about seeking picturesque views; it can also be about confronting the challenging aspects of history and gaining a deeper understanding of the places we visit. Viking Cruises provided the perfect base for this thoughtful exploration, with its signature comfort, outstanding service and exceptional learning opportunities, making our experience memorable and meaningful.
