Mexico
Want to Experience the Real Mexico? Go to Guadalajara!
Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick, (main photo: WT library)
“Guadalajara, Guadalajara, you’re the actual heart of Mexico,” say the lyrics of the popular mariachi song, written by Pepe Guizar and covered by multiple performers, including Elvis. Having recently visited this capital of the state of Jalisco, located in the Atemajac Valley in west-central Mexico, I wholeheartedly agree with the composer.
Though it’s one of the largest cities of the country with a population of approximately 1.5 million, it feels smaller with friendly Tapatios (the affectionate nickname for people from Guadalajara) and a strong sense of tradition. In fact, it’s the birthplace of three of the most important cultural icons of Mexico: mariachi music, tequila and the sombrero. This authenticity combined with its cultural richness and delectable cuisine certainly made this traveler’s heart sing and filled me with a desire to return to the ‘enchanting romance’, ‘markets and pottery,’ and ‘unforgettable city’ that Pepe and Elvis sang about.
Here were some of the most memorable experiences that had me humming – ♫ Guadalajara, Guadalajara ♫:
Marveling at the murals of Jose Clemente Orozco at the Cabanas Museum
Considered to be the Michelangelo of the Americas, the one-handed painter Orozco is known for his emotionally expressive and dramatic frescoes that convey political commentary on post-revolutionary Mexico. Though I couldn’t quite grasp his interpretation, looking up at ‘Man on Fire’ was as moving as the Sistine Chapel.
These murals are the star attraction of the Hospicio Cabanas, an indoor-outdoor complex originally built in 1810 to house orphans. The site is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site both because of the murals and the architectural significance of the place itself.
Painting pottery in the pretty town of Tlaquepaque
In the outskirts of Guadalajara sits one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, magical towns deemed to be uniquely beautiful or significant. Tlaquepaque earned this designation in a large part because of its rich craftmanship, particularly in pottery but also wood carving, hand-blown glass and textiles. We began our enchanting visit here at Taller Paco Padilla, a family run ceramic workshop and showroom that honors and continues the pottery tradition that existed here since ancient times.
“The clay’s minerals in this location make it special,” said Santiago Padilla, whose grandfather founded the studio. He went on to tell us that pieces from this region are displayed in many of the world’s most prestigious museums, including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, England.
The three-generation studio and workshop is the real deal with shelves stocked with ceramic pieces in various stages of completion, piles of broken pieces and a large kiln. A potter sits at his wheel, expertly spinning plates.
“He’s worked here all his life,” said Santiago. “Like his father before him.”
On display are some of the finished plates, beautifully painted by his grandfather, who shares his love of Mexico and the land with stylistic depictions of charros (cowboys). Touring the workshops got my own creative juices flowing, so it was a treat to be able to paint our own ceramic creations. Santiago demonstrated some of the classic decorative styles unique to the area before letting us loose on our own calaveras (day of the dead skulls). Painting them was a thoroughly relaxing and fun way to connect to Tlaquepaque.
After our artistic endeavors, we explored its colorful streets teeming with galleries, shops and art displays. We finished our magical day with a meal at Luna Restaurant, whose live music and flamboyant décor took full advantage of Tlaquepaque artistic spoils.
Biting into birotes and birria
Guadalajara is a collection of neighborhoods that eventually grew into one city, but each still retains its own character and its own flavors. Added to that, is the fusion of indigenous, Spanish and modern cuisine and the creativity of the city’s chefs. Suffice to say, the food scene here is phenomenal. Some mouthwatering specialties include birote, Guadalajara’s crunchy sourdough bread that is known throughout Mexico. It’s also the base for the famous torta ahogada (drowned sandwich) which is filled with pork, and beans pickled onions all smothered in salsa. Another signature dish here is birria, a rich meat stew in a red chili broth.
Every meal we had in the city delighted our taste buds, whether it was cappuccino and chilaquiles, a traditional breakfast dish, at PalReal Café from or a gourmet spread of seafood and fusion specialties at Allium Restaurant. Piso Siete in the city’s historical center not only had delicious and well-presented food but also a panoramic view of the central plaza and Guadalajara’s 400-year-old cathedral glowing in the sunset.
Touring and tasting in a town called Tequila
Another Pueblo Magico is Tequila, a town located approximately 40 miles from Guadalajara. As our bus rolled out of the city, the landscape transitioned to verdant hills dotted with plants until we came to a sign that read: Bienvenido a Tequila. Until my visit, I had no idea that such a town existed. It turned out that there was a lot I didn’t know about Mexico’s national drink.
Just like champagne, tequila has strict rules about production and origin. And most of it is made right here in Jalisco. Its history goes back thousands of years, when according to legend, Mexico’s favorite elixir was created after a bolt of lightning struck the agave field causing a fire that cooked the plants. A few days later, locals tasted the fermented juice and declared it a ‘gift from the gods’.
After spending some time exploring the sites and markets of the town of Tequila (which like Tlaquepaque is not only a Pueblo Magico but also UNESCO World Heritage Site), we boarded a barrel-shaped bus and toured Casa Sauza, one of 20 tequila operations in and around the town. It was a fun and informative tour, where we wore many hats. We donned a straw cowboy hat when we stopped at the botanical gardens to learn how the agave is planted and harvested, a hard hat when we toured the distillery and a hairnet to witness the final step of bottling the finished product. My newfound respect for tequila was cemented at the Casa Sauza tasting room back in town. Surrounded by barrels, we were led through the tasting process that involved all the senses.
Moving to the beat of mariachi music
This traditional folk music that combines brass and stringed instruments is famous throughout Mexico, but it was born in the state of Jalisco. And nowhere is it revered more. This is especially apparent in August, when Guadalajara hosts the International Mariachi Festival. Luckily for us, this much-anticipated event coincided with our visit, and the city’s cobble-stoned streets were alive with outdoor performances. At the historic Degollado Theater, we watched in rapture as more than a dozen of the region’s top mariacheros accompanied by the Guadalajara Philharmonic Orchestra captured the audience. The emotion of the music was palpable and conveyed the deeply cultural expression and heart of Mexico.
When you go: Direct flights to Guadalajara are now available with Flair Airlines from Toronto and Vancouver. We stayed at the luxurious and comfortable Indigo Hotel, one of the city’s newest hotels.
