Cruise
A Bike and Boat Tour of Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast
by Olivia Liveng
Two “b-words” that always complement one another are “bikes” and “boats.” These are not just means of transport and a way to get from A-B. Nay, a “bike AND boat” tour may be the optimal way to explore a new country by land and sea. I recently had the opportunity to tour much of Croatia with BikeTours.com’s charter of the wooden ship “San Snova.”
Though I have always individually loved biking and boating as separate activities, this tour allowed me not only to reach some of Croatia’s most remote and less-frequently touristed islands, but also to explore them intimately by biking. Biking is not only a physical and mental journey, but also forces us to slow down and better digest new environments that a traditional bus tour would never allow. It allows us to stop to replenish and rehydrate at local stops on sideroads that would be much too narrow and winding for a bus to travel on. And, most of all, they allow us to best connect with the local environment and people of a new destination.
“Bike and boat tours are probably my favorite type of tour,” said Jim Johnson, Founder and Former President of BikeTours.com. “Bicycle tours typically get you where cars and most tourists never go. But I add a boat to the mix, especially in coastal waters, and you can gain access to areas that even bicycles can’t normally get to. Many of our clients also love the idea of a floating hotel where you don’t have to pack and unpack daily.”
The bike and boating tour combination may be just what you’ve always wanted if you’re active and adventurous. I am already yearning for upcoming adventures with BikeTours.com: the first, in 2023, covers the route north Split and Dubrovnik and includes Istria and Northern Dalmatia. The other, for 2024, will go south from Dubrovnik to Montenegro and Albania with an overnight excursion off the boat to Bosnia. While this was my first “B and B” tour, it certainly won’t be the last–from the stunning accommodations to the adventures offshore each day by two-wheels, I made use of my time in a way I never had on a holiday previously.
San Snova, Our Valiant Ship for the Week
I spent two weeks aboard San Snova, the impeccably gorgeous wooden sailing vessel that seamlessly combines modernity and practical functionalism. While the ship isn’t grand in size (therefore, it can swiftly maneuver into smaller bays that larger vessels would never fit in), it feels complete. The ship boasts 14 spacious guest cabins, each with a private bathroom, shower, and toilet. Above deck, the vessel has six double cabins with a French bed, five triple cabins with French beds, and a single bunk bed. Below the deck are three spacious triple cabins with one double bed and a single bunk bed.
Besides providing an excellent home to rest your head after a day of cycling, the ship is entertaining and quite all-encompassing. It’s not a gigantic cruise ship with casinos and waterslides but does have many areas optimal for soaking in that Croatian sun. The desk has comfortable chairs, and the bar in the salon provides all the local Croatian beer, and wine one may need on holiday. When the ship docks outside small harbors, there is the perfect side platform for jumping off into that crystal clear water that has made Croatia so famous. And, of course, there is the ability to just lounge and watch the scenery go by.
“If you’re tired or don’t feel like cycling, you stay on board and view the world from the deck,” explained Johnson. “That’s also a bonus for partners with different abilities and interests in cycling. They can go on the same trip but decide which tours they will go on each day. One can ride, and the other stays on board. They meet up at the next port.”
An Adventure of a Lifetime…On Wheels!
Our biking and boating adventure began in Split, the Croatian coastal city famed for being home to the former Palace of Emperor Diocletian (and many other significant Game of Thrones references!) and some of the most lively European nightlife. After exploring both in-depth, our first of many cycle tours commenced in Šolta, which is beloved for its walled fields, numerous olive groves, locust beans, and fig trees that line the roads. The herb smells of lavender and rosemary accompanied us along the tour through this island. We even visited with a beekeeper named Goran–his combination of passion, humor, and knowledge was a highlight for everyone.
Another highlight was anchoring in Lastovo, one of the smaller inhabited islands in the Adriatic Sea. Emperor Augustus appreciated the mild climate, and in Roman times the island was named “Augusta Insula” after him. The population of just over 800 still lives mainly from fishing, agriculture, and viticulture. While quite grueling, our cycle tour around this naturally magnificent island was a testament to how possible it is to become intertwined with nature when on two wheels (and a boat to get us there in the first place!)
As an active traveler who has always appreciated taking time to soak in the local atmosphere, these two weeks aboard San Snova were truly magical–a way to better understand Croatia beyond the tourist scenes.
