USA
A Golden Visit to the Presidio of San Francisco
by Jennifer Merrick
At the exact moment I pulled up to my hotel, the fog parted to reveal the two top peaks of the towers of San Francisco’s iconic bridge before disappearing again under Karl’s shroud (Karl being the moniker locals call the city’s pervasive fog). After checking in, I was thrilled to see from my hotel window that the bridge had revealed more of herself with crimson-painted steel stretching into the fog that now only draped half of her. By the time I left 30 minutes later, the entrance was complete, and she stood in all her glory, sunlight spotlighting the artistry and engineering that makes the Golden Gate Bridge the star she is.
This magical hide and seek performance looped continuously during my stay in San Francisco and I never once tired of its seduction. I was lucky enough to have a front row seat, as I was staying at the Lodge at Presidio, the closest hotel to the Golden Gate Bridge. This 40-room luxury property is located in the Presidio San Francisco, a remarkable 1500-acre urban park and a National Historic Landmark District.
The storied military past of the Presidio began in March 1776, when Spain established its northernmost outpost in the Americas here. It then served as a Mexican fort from 1822 until 1846 and finally a US Army base until the 1990s. For the past 30 years, the Presidio has been developed and transformed into an ambitious public recreation property that hosts a wide array of cultural, natural, and historical experiences for locals and visitors alike.
By staying in this urban refuge, not only did I have my golden view but the best of both worlds as well. Surrounded by nature’s beauty and the water views, I basked in the park’s calmness. Yet all of San Fran’s vibrancy and attractions were a short, free shuttle bus away.
Exploring the Presidio
Presidio Tunnel Tops: “We’re standing on top of a highway,” said Lisa Petrie, the park’s spokesperson. If she hadn’t told me, I never would have guessed there was a busy highway underneath our feet. The new 14-acre park, one of the most recent and ambitious projects at the Presidio, was designed by the same architecture team behind New York City’s High Line.
“We did a lot of community outreach with different demographics to ensure the design appealed to a diverse range of ages and communities,” said Petrie. This input influenced details like the colorful murals, large gathering spaces and seating areas, and food offerings. The Outpost, a two-acre playground overlooking the bay, was a favourite for kids along with the Field Station, a discovery center where they connected with the nature around them through hands-on art and science activities.
Another highlight of the new Tunnel Tops was its access to the previously isolated marshlands, known as Chrisy Fields. Formerly an airfield, these restored tidal marshes now see birds taking off instead of planes. It’s one of the reasons the biodiversity is so high in the urban park with 750 species of flora and fauna, 21 of which are threatened, rare or endangered. The marsh’s trails were part of the 24-mile network that connected Baker and Stinson beaches, multiple scenic overlooks, and the National Cemetery.
Walt Disney Family Museum: This museum’s interactive galleries granted an intimate window into a man whose vision inspired so many. The 12-foot model of Disneyland was particularly impressive; however smaller displays, like his grocery list and the newspaper articles that chronicled the world’s reaction to his death, were also insightful. Other cultural attractions at the Presidio included the Society of California Pioneers, Korean War memorial, Yoda statue and an archaeological lab.
Presidio Social Club: This restaurant was always a place to gather even when it was an officers’ Club in the early 20th century. Now renovated with an airy design and retro touches, it served up classic American dishes and cocktails. The relaxed atmosphere fit its location, particularly on a summer day when diners lingered on its large patio. Other restaurants in the Presidio included Colibri Mexican Bistro, Ironwoods and Sessions.
Lodge at Presidio: The accommodation felt like an attraction itself with its collection of photographs paying homage to the building’s former life as military barracks. The mostly black and white depictions of life on the base were retouched with splashes of colour fitting in nicely with the modern refurbishment of the historic building. In front of the entrance is the Main Parade Lawn, which used to be the training ground for soldiers. Today instead of push-ups and drills, I saw young people kicking a soccer ball, loungers soaking up the views on massive red reclining chairs and picnickers noshing on food truck concoctions. The lodge’s large, wide white porch was the ideal vantage point to watch the action while still keeping an eye on the Golden Gate peep show.
Off the Presidio Adventures
As much as I was tempted to spend my entire San Franciscan vacation at the Presidio, there was much more to explore in the Golden City.
Ferry Market: There’s nothing like the sights, smells, and tastes of a bustling market, and the Ferry Building is one of the best. At the market, I immediately gravitated to the Blue Bottle Coffee stall, and with a strong, rich brew in hand I browsed the stalls that sold everything from oysters and cheeses to preserves, sourdough bread and local wines.
Chinatown and North Beach: Walking around the steep alleys and streets in two of San Fran’s oldest and most colourful neighbours was also a treat for the senses. I stopped at the Golden Gate Chinese Cookie Factory, the birthplace of the fortune cookie. My fortune read ‘plan for many pleasures ahead’, which proved an accurate prediction, as my next stop was Eco Terreno for their Bee Classic Tasting Experience. Their vineyard in Sonoma prides itself on organic and biodynamic farming practices that nurture the health of the soil and the grapes. Their urban wine tasting room in North Beach’s historic Jackson Square poured samples of their award-winning wines in curated tastings. My wine ambassador assistant spoke passionately about both the vineyard and each of the five selections, which provided many pleasures to my tastebuds, as foretold.
Biking the Golden Gate Bridge: It was now time to get up close and personal with the attraction that I had been enjoying in the distance. My adventure with Blazing Saddles, a well-respected outfitting company, offered bike rentals, equipment, and guided excursions. I picked up an eBike at their Fisherman Wharf’s location, which is just a block away from the car-free bike path to the iconic bridge, not to mention a cool place to hang out. After testing out the bike and a video presentation of the route, I was off. I tried to keep the bridge in my sights but once again Karl the fog moved in, and the golden bridge played her game of hide and seek. Once on the bridge, I was glad of the eBike so I didn’t have to petal against the wind through the cool mist. Up close, the structure was larger, more imposing and powerful. It was a thrill to ride across it. The minute I crossed and was cruising down to Saucilito, the sun appeared, and I turned around to see the shining red landmark. The foggy screen I had just gone through seemed like an illusion.
Bravo, Golden Gate Bridge, your exit was as good as your entrance.
