Cruise
Aurora Expeditions: Costa Rica Through the Panama Canal
by Nicholas Kontis
While I never tire of cruising, some voyages are more memorable than others. One such journey was a 14-day Central American excursion through the Panama Canal, from Costa Rica’s Pacific shore to historic Cartagena on Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
My wife and I traveled in April 2022 with Australia’s award-winning Aurora Expeditions aboard its Greg Mortimer expedition ship. Before and after our canal transit, our cruise hugged the verdant jungle coastlines of Costa Rica and Panama enroute to Colombia.
Highlights
• Luxury accommodation aboard the custom-built Greg Mortimer
• Extraordinary flora and fauna on the Pacific coasts of Costa Rica and Panama
• Protected marine life in the sanctuary of Coiba National Park
• An indigenous community of Embera people in remote Darien National Park
• A tour of Panama’s “Old Town” with its striking multicolored structures
• A daytime crossing of the Panama Canal
• The Afro-Caribbean vibe of Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
Along the ‘Rich Coast’
As a land bridge between North and South America, Central America contains a wealth of flora and fauna from both continents. At its heart is Costa Rica, a nation whose name translates to “Rich Coast.” About the size of West Virginia, it brims with an abundance of wildlife in national parks designed as eco-playgrounds. Proud of its pura vida (Pure Life), Costa Rica is home to 5% of the world’s species — even though it covers a mere .03% of the Earth’s surface. Beaches along both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea offer surfing and snorkeling.
Arriving in the capital city of San José, we stayed at the Doubletree by Hilton Cariari, as arranged by Aurora Expeditions. We always arrive a day or two before sailing to acclimate to our surroundings and, in this case, to explore the colonial capital.
Aboard the Greg Mortimer
Aurora Expeditions was the brainchild of Greg Mortimer, an intrepid explorer and mountaineer who launched the company in 1985 to share his passion with friends and family. In Antarctica, he pioneered ship-based adventures in which cruise guests could enjoy sea kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving or even climbing.
His namesake ship, the stately Greg Mortimer, was built in 2019 for the expressed purpose of traveling the waters of the polar regions. State-of-the-art technology, notably a Norwegian-designed Ulstein X-Bow, assures smooth sailing through the waters of Drake’s Passage and Greenland’s surrounding seas. When we hit a storm between Panama and Cartagena, this feature definitely calmed the ship.
We boarded the Greg Mortimer in Puerto Caldera after a comfortable bus ride west from San José. At a length of 104 meters (341 feet), the vessel welcomes up to 160 guests. (The average number is 132, though there were a mere 32 on our trip.) There are six spacious passenger decks, eight observation decks, two sun decks, a library, a pool with a pool bar, and two jacuzzis.
We were briefed on each day’s activities in the lecture theater. The mudroom was the center of operations for zodiac trips to nearby rainforests and islands: Fifteen of the rubber craft served the ship.
And at the end of each day’s activities, we enjoyed drinks in the Elephant Bar and a piano bar, and explored a gift shop for Aurora-logo keepsakes as well as caps, sunscreen, wet bags and toiletries.
Given the ship’s nonstop schedule, I doubt many guests were able to take advantage of the gym or spa. I couldn’t even find time for a massage. My wife and I remained healthy for the entire journey, but we were secure in knowing that a doctor and medical team were aboard in the event of illness or accident.
Wildlife and native tribes
Costa Rica and Panama are ecological treasure troves of UNESCO-honored national parks. First in Manuel Antonio National Park, then in the lush tropical rainforests of the Osa Peninsula and Corcovado, we saw lazy sloths, cacophonous rainbow-billed toucans, and wailing spider, capuchin, squirrel and howler monkeys. Myriad species of birds, iguanas and snakes accented our hikes.
In the Golfo Dolce, we boarded zodiacs for a three-hour tour to Saladero, where acrobatic dolphins gave us a full display of their athleticism. In Coiba National Marine Park, we had the option of kayaking or paddleboarding inside the bay.
In Panama we visited a community of indigenous Embera Indians. The 100-or-so people allow visitors a glimpse into their everyday lives. I found this day trip to be mostly genuine, although some of my group questioned the authenticity and wondered if it was simply an opportunity for natives to sell handicrafts and trinkets.
A man, a plan, a canal: Panama
Panama is the only place in the world where you can see the sun rise on the Pacific and set in the Atlantic from the same spot. Its vibrant capital, Panama City, is the only capital city in the world with a rainforest within its city limits.
On a guided city tour, we explored the picturesque old quarter of Casco Viejo. The Miraflores Locks visitor center provided a glimpse into the operation and history of the Panama Canal. I learned that Lake Gatun is the world’s largest manmade lake after Lake Mead (on the Nevada-Arizona-California border).
The journey’s highlight was the daylight crossing of the canal (30 nautical miles, 57 kilometers) from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea. I was excited to witness the workings of the famous canal up-close, while crossing Balboa, Miraflores, Pedro Miguel, Culebra Cut, the Chagres River, Lake Gatun, Gatun Locks and Limon Bay at Colón.
Cartagena, Colombia
The cruise ended in Cartagena de Indias, on Colombia’s sun-splashed Caribbean coast. After a guided tour of the city, we disembarked for one last night at the Hilton Cartagena, an outstanding beachfront property with four outdoor pools.
Although relatively small in stature, this historic port city cradles nearly 500 years of colonial charm. It is intoxicating, making an early exit almost unfathomable. My wife and I stayed in the enchanting walled city for an extra five days. Then we flew to Medellin for five more days, to explore more of Colombia.
The human element
Ultimately, it was the people I met who will create the most lasting memories. In particular, the international team of guides and naturalists made it unforgettable.
Costa Rican Conrad Weston is a photographer and naturalist. His knowledge of bird species is nothing short of remarkable. On jungle hikes in Manuel Antonio and Corcovado, Conrad pointed out birds in trees that the average eye would never find.
British biologist and destination expert Phoebe Edge was always accessible. No question was a burden. “The sea has a way of enchanting us, capturing our imagination and intriguing us with mysteries of the unexplored, so embrace every moment,” this wise scientist reminded us.
Austrian hotel director Franz Wusits and his team were a joy to be around, as were the rest of the 56 crew and 18 additional staff. A Jamaican chef and Peruvian food-and-beverage manager oversaw three meals a day, and special needs were easily answered — including my wife’s request for gluten-free, dairy-free meals.
Notes and tips
A recurring theme on this expedition, and any such journey in the sun, is to stay hydrated. Aurora gives each guest a water bottle and filling stations are available on each deck. I was reminded to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a raincoat, a change of footwear for wet landings, and binoculars to capture the unexpected at a distance.
Don’t expect much downtime. Don’t miss anything. Go with the company’s motto of “go with the flow and remain flexible.” Spend as little time as possible in your room. Don’t miss the chance to see dancing dolphins or breaching whales from the observation decks because you were in your room.
You’re up early each day for breakfast at 7 a.m. Morning excursions begin at 8 or 9. Return for lunch and head back out for afternoon exploration, then come back to the ship for eye-popping sunsets and dinner. Days go by fast and are jam-packed.
Although shipboard dress is informal, cocktail attire is appropriate for the Captain’s Welcome meet-and-greet cocktail gathering at the Elephant Bar, followed by a three-course dinner.
