Japan
Discovering the Hidden Treasures of Shikoku, Japan
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
Travel often transforms the soul, but Shikoku—Japan’s smallest and least-visited main island—offers something more profound. It’s a journey of contrasts, where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with breathtaking landscapes and thrilling adventures. My time in Shikoku, framed by serene temples, invigorating hikes, and authentic cultural experiences, was nothing short of transformative. This is my story of discovery, relaxation, and enlightenment in this hidden gem of Japan.
Kobe to Shikoku – The Adventure Begins
Starting my journey in Kobe, we would drive the Seto Inland Sea to Shikoku. Our first stop along the way was Awaji Island, a charming rest spot known for its blend of natural beauty and creative attractions. Here, I experienced Nijigen no Mori, a unique theme park combining Japanese pop culture and immersive experiences. The highlight? The Godzilla Interception Operation. Suspended on a thrilling zipline, I flew straight into the mouth of a colossal Godzilla replica. Equal parts exhilarating and surreal, it set the tone for the adventure ahead.
From there, we made our way to Koshu no Ya, a quaint shop and bar filled with handcrafted goods and local sake. It was the perfect place to unwind and get a taste of the region’s artisan culture. Later, we enjoyed a sumptuous sushi lunch at Aonoya- Seikaiha (that had a spectacular theater like setting with sweeping views of the sea). Each piece was a revelation of fresh, oceanic flavors—a reminder of how Japan elevates food into art.
In the afternoon, we headed to Zenbo-Seinei for a meditation session. Set amid lush greenery, the minimalist Zen space invited stillness. Guided breathing exercises helped me clear my mind, connecting deeply with the tranquil surroundings. This moment of mindfulness proved to be a fitting prelude to our next activity.
Indigo Dreams and Ancient Puppet Theatre
Shikoku is renowned for its indigo dyeing tradition, and I had the chance to try it firsthand at Ainoyakata. Guided by local artisans, I created my own vibrant patterns on fabric, immersing myself in a centuries-old craft. There’s something magical about seeing your hands bring life to a tradition so deeply tied to the region’s identity.
The evening brought us to the Awa Jurobe Yashiki, home to the traditional puppet theatre art known as Ningyo Joruri Bunraku. Watching the skilled puppeteers manipulate their intricately crafted figures was mesmerizing. Their performances, accompanied by soulful chanting and shamisen music, told timeless tales that left me spellbound.
We ended the day at our hotel, Dinner was a sumptuous buffet of Awa’s local cuisine, and later, we watched the lively Awa Odori dance performance—a joyful celebration of movement and rhythm.
A Pilgrimage Across Time
The following morning, I donned a traditional pilgrimage costume at Monzen Ichibangai and set out on a spiritual journey along the Shikoku Henro, a revered pilgrimage route. Our first destination was Reizan-ji Temple, the first of 88 temples on this sacred trail. Nestled in a serene forest, the temple exuded a quiet power, its ancient halls resonating with the chants of monks and the soft rustle of leaves.
From there, we embarked on a 20-minute hike to Gokuraku-ji Temple. The short trek, surrounded by towering cedar trees, was invigorating. Lunch followed—juicy Asan Beef Roast Steak that melted in my mouth, fueling me for the next leg of the pilgrimage. A 40-minute hike brought us to Konsen-ji Temple, and then we faced the most challenging stretch: a 90-minute trek to Dainichi-ji Temple. Each temple visit felt like a step back in time, each more serene than the last.
Our day concluded at the luxurious Iya Onsen, tucked deep within the remote Iya Valley at the Hotel Kazurabashi and accessible only by cable car, the open-air baths offered panoramic views of verdant mountains and misty valleys. As I sank into the warm waters, the beauty of Shikoku came to mind and we still had many great days ahead of us and I could not wait.
Exploring Shikoku’s Mountain Trails and Rivers
With the guidance of the experts of Shikuko Tours, the next chapter of my Shikoku adventure would take me deeper into its rugged beauty and cultural richness. This was a day built around the kind of slow exploration that truly lets you connect with a place—cycling through mountains, hiking to breathtaking viewpoints, and paddling down crystal-clear rivers. The journey revealed the natural wonders of Shikoku while offering more of its delicious cuisine and artisan traditions.
Cycling the Ishizuchi Skyline Hill Climb
Our day began early as we geared up for the Ishizuchi Skyline Hill Climb, one of the most scenic cycling routes in western Japan. Mount Ishizuchi, rising to 1,982 meters, loomed majestically in the background as we set off. These assisted bicycles were a blessing on the steep inclines, allowing us to focus on the stunning views rather than the strain of the climb.
We took a break at Dogoya Terrace for lunch. Nestled among the hills, this cozy spot served a pasta dish that perfectly captured the region’s essence—rich, savory wild boar sausage paired with handmade noodles. The meal was hearty yet refined, and the perfect way to recharge for the next stage of the journey.
Cycling along the Niyodo River
After descending from the mountain ridges the next day, we found ourselves following the Niyodo River, one of the clearest and most beautiful rivers in Japan. Known for its brilliant emerald hues—often referred to as “Niyodo Blue”—the river was a tranquil companion as we cycled downstream.
We stopped for lunch at Mizube no Eki Ainosato, a riverside restaurant specializing in local cuisine. The dishes reflected the bounty of the region, from fresh river fish to seasonal vegetables. It was a meal that felt deeply connected to the landscape, each bite echoing the flavors of the surrounding hills and waters.
Stand-Up Paddleboarding on the Niyodo River
The highlight of the day was a stand-up paddleboarding excursion along the Niyodo River. For two to three hours, paddled through the calm, crystalline waters, surrounded by the serenity of nature. The river wound its way through lush forests and steep cliffs, with sunlight filtering through the leaves to create a dappled effect on the water.
The Art of Washi Paper Making
We visited the Ino-cho Paper Museum and the Tosa Washi Workshop, where I had the chance to learn about Shikoku’s renowned washi paper tradition. The process of making washi, a delicate and durable handmade paper, was mesmerizing. Using a wooden frame, I scooped a slurry of water and plant fibers to form thin sheets of paper.
As my hands moved through the process, I couldn’t help but marvel at the centuries-old craftsmanship that went into this art form. The finished paper was exquisite, with a texture that spoke of its organic origins. This was more than a souvenir—it was a piece of Shikoku’s cultural heritage that I had helped create.
Ayu Fish and Cycling to the Pacific Ocean
For lunch, we stopped at Uokane, a riverside eatery specializing in ayu fish, a seasonal delicacy from the Niyodo River. Grilled to perfection over charcoal, the fish had a delicate, slightly sweet flavor that captured the purity of the river it came from.
Our final stretch of cycling took us from the river to its mouth at the Pacific Ocean. The transition from the calm, narrow river to the vast expanse of the ocean was awe-inspiring. As I pedaled along the coastline, the salty breeze and the sound of crashing waves felt invigorating. This was the perfect way to close the cycling portion of the trip—a journey that had taken me from mountains to sea, revealing the full spectrum of Shikoku’s landscapes.
A Sake Brewery Tour at Kameizumi
Our last cultural stop was a tour of the Kameizumi Sake Brewery. The brewery, known for its innovative techniques and high-quality sake, offered a fascinating look into the art of sake-making.
The tour began with a walk through the brewing facilities, where I learned about the meticulous process of fermenting rice to create this iconic Japanese drink. The highlight was, of course, the tasting session. Each sake had its own distinct flavor profile, from light and fruity to rich and umami-packed. The brewers’ passion and dedication were evident in every sip.
On to Kochi
Before leaving Shikoku, I made a last stop to Kochi, a vibrant city rich in history and buzzing with life. At its heart stands Kochi Castle, one of Japan’s rare original castles that has survived since the Edo period. Walking through its imposing gates and ascending its wooden stairs, I marveled at the exquisite architecture and panoramic views of the city below. The castle grounds were equally captivating, filled with elegant, mature trees.
A Feast to End the Day
For dinner, we indulged in a Tosa Shabu Course at Tosaryori-Tsukasa Main Store, a restaurant renowned for its authentic Tosa cuisine. The centerpiece of the meal was shabu-shabu, a hot pot dish where thinly sliced meats and fresh vegetables are cooked briefly in a boiling broth.
The ingredients were of the highest quality, and the interactive nature of the meal added to the enjoyment. As we dipped the meats and vegetables into the bubbling broth, the aromas filled the air, promising flavors as rich as the experiences we’d had throughout the day.
The Essence of Shikoku
Reflecting on the trip, I realized that it encapsulated everything I had come to love about Shikoku: its unspoiled natural beauty, its deep cultural traditions, and its warm, welcoming people. From cycling through mountain ridges to paddling along emerald rivers, from creating handmade washi to savoring the freshest local cuisine, every experience felt authentic and meaningful.
Shikoku is a place that doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It invites you to explore at your own pace, to uncover its secrets one by one. As I prepared to leave this enchanting island, I knew I was taking more than just memories with me—I was leaving with a piece of Shikoku in my heart.
