Dominica
Dominica: Rediscovering the Joy of Scuba Diving on the Caribbean’s Nature Island
Article & photography by Jennifer Merrick and Nature Island Dive
If you’re searching for all-inclusive luxury resorts with white sand beaches, unlimited cocktails and maybe a little casino action, Dominica is not the Caribbean island for you. You’re probably looking for the Dominican Republic, about 600 miles northwest, where they have many wonderful resorts for just that type of vacation. But if you’re craving an unspoiled island that invites you to hike lush rainforest mountains, dive coral reefs teeming with marine life and soak in natural sulphur hot springs, then book the first flight to Dominica.
Back Beneath the Surface
It had been over 20 years since I last took a breath under the water, and I couldn’t have asked for a better place to rediscover my passion for scuba diving. Dominica’s diving stands out as among the best in the world thanks to its dramatic volcanic topography, abundant marine life and rare hydrothermal activity.
Its nine active volcanoes have not only shaped the stunning mountainous landscape above the sea, but created dramatic walls, deep craters and towering pinnacles below the surface. Clinging to these otherworldly volcanic rock formations are giant barrel sponges, delicate sea fans, colorful rope sponges and hard and soft corals that provide habitat for teeming schools of tropical fish, moray eels, hawksbill and green sea turtles, octopus, seahorses, squid, stingrays and eagle rays.
The Soufriere Scotts Head Marine Reserve is a 2200-acre protected area with more than 20 dive sites, all revealing their own underwater wonders. Our dives with the passionate and expert team at Nature Island Dive took us to L’Abym (The Abyss), where a 1,500-foot wall, bursting with coral and marine life, plunges into the deep blue. At nearby Coral Gardens, colorful schools of tropical fish made us feel we had been submerged in a giant aquarium, and then a much larger guest greeted us. A magnificent hawksbill turtle swam leisurely in our direction, seemingly as curious about us as we were about him. After gliding past, he circled back for one last look before raising a flipper and disappearing into the deep.
The next day, at Danglebens Pinnacles, our eagle-eyed guide, Desiree, pointed out a tiny seahorse camouflaged against a purple rope sponge. But even more incredible was gliding through an underwater valley as hundreds of tiny purple creole wrasse and shimmering silver mackerel streamed overhead like an underwater waterfall. A vibrant coral wall bordered one side while the deep turquoise sea stretched away on the other, where larger creole wrasse and jackfish were weaving among formations that resembled underwater sculptures.
As we surfaced, I wondered why I had waited 23 years to scuba dive again.
Heated by Nature
The same volcanic forces that sculpted this dreamlike, underwater landscape also feed more than 20 mineral-rich sulphur hot springs scattered through Dominica’s rainforests and river valleys. We brought our tired muscles to Wotten Waven, the country’s hot spring capital, to soak in the rustic spa, Ti Kwen Glo Cho. Creole for ‘little corner hot water’, this park-like property had paths canopied with jungle vegetation leading to three pools: one steaming hot, another pleasantly warm and a shallow mud bath. A cold-water waterfall flowed beside the hot pool, creating the most natural contrast-therapy circuit I’ve ever experienced. Not only were the hot springs themselves relaxing, but the verdant rainforest surroundings created a serene setting, which felt worlds away from all of life’s stresses.
One thermal pool you won’t be able to soak in is Boiling Lake, a 207-foot-wide cauldron of bubbling water shrouded by steam. It’s the world’s second-largest ‘boiling lake’, a flooded fumarole, where superheated steam and volcanic gases escaping from magma deep below keep the water at a roiling boil. To see this incredible sight now requires a full-day guided hike through thick forests. However, a cable car is set to finish in 2027, which will whisk visitors up four miles to witness this extraordinary site.
Boiling Lake is the jewel in the crown of Dominica’s Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site prized for its pristine rainforest, woodlands and volcanic activity. The 17,000-acre reserve offers a network of hiking trails ranging from easy walks to the glimmering Emerald Pool and the 125-foot Trafalgar Falls to more challenging treks to Middleham Falls, Boer Lake and, of course, Boiling Lake.
Stay Close to Nature
Dominica has largely resisted the sprawling beachfront developments found elsewhere in the Caribbean. Instead, the island has embraced smaller, environmentally conscious properties that blend seamlessly into the rainforest and coastline, allowing its natural beauty and authentic character to remain the main attraction.
At Jungle Bay, local entrepreneur Sam Raphael has created an idyllic, eco-luxury retreat with 60 tropical-style villas tucked into the hills overlooking the turquoise Caribbean Sea. His vision to combine community involvement, environmental stewardship and sustainable tourism is reflected in every aspect of the resort. The property grounds, for example, have over 100 varieties of tropical fruit.
“If you’re going to populate a place, why not make it edible?” Sam said as he handed us some fragrant cinnamon leaves to chew on. Guests can join guided garden tours, learn about the healing properties of the herbs and the plants that grow here and take part in activities ranging from hiking and snorkelling to sunset yoga. These experiences are included as part of Jungle Bay’s adventure wellness program, making it easy to immerse yourself in both the island’s natural beauty and its traditions. Its location, only 10 minutes away from the Scotts Head Marine Reserve, is also an ideal base for divers and nature lovers alike.
For travelers who prefer to be immersed in Dominica’s history and culture, Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort offers a different experience. Located on the waterfront in the heart of Roseau, the island’s capital, the hotel sits directly across from the parliament building and within easy walking distance of museums, markets, restaurants and the city’s colorful streets. The property is also one of Dominica’s longest-established dive operators, offering daily boat dives, certification courses and snorkelling excursions.
On our final dive, a shore dive from Fort Young Hotel, we were struck by the abundance of marine life just steps from the beach. Schools of tropical fish darted around us, and a southern stingray glided across the sandy bottom. To encounter such marine life just offshore from the country’s largest city captured what makes Dominica such a stellar choice for nature lovers. Here, unspoiled beauty isn’t confined to remote corners of the island, it’s all around you, whether you’re hiking through rainforest, soaking in volcanic hot springs or taking your first breath underwater after a 23-year hiatus.
