United Kingdom
Exploring the Falkland Islands – A Journey to the Edge of the World
by Olivia Liveng
The Falkland Islands, a windswept archipelago in the South Atlantic, offer a unique blend of rugged beauty, untouched wilderness, and rich cultural experiences. Over seven unforgettable days, I immersed myself in this remote destination, discovering its abundant wildlife, unique cultural traditions, and warm hospitality. Each island and settlement offered a glimpse into a way of life deeply rooted in nature and tradition. Here’s a detailed account of my journey and everything you need to know for your own Falklands adventure.
Getting There: A Gateway to Isolation
Reaching the Falklands is an adventure in itself. My journey began in Santiago, Chile, where I boarded a LATAM flight bound for Mount Pleasant Airport. The five-hour flight, treated as an add-on to a domestic Chilean route, lands at a military base shared with civilian operations. Upon arrival, I was greeted by representatives from the Falkland Islands Tourist Board, who arranged a scenic drive to Stanley, the capital. Along the way, I got my first taste of the island’s raw, untamed beauty—rolling hills, windswept grasses, and a sense of vastness that somehow made the world feel bigger.
Stanley: A Harbor Town Steeped in History
Stanley, the capital, is home to the majority of the Falklands’ population and serves as its cultural and administrative hub. Its picturesque harbor, colorful cottages, and charming British character make it an ideal place to start exploring. My first stop was the Historic Dockyard Museum, where I learned about the islands’ maritime history and their role in the 1982 conflict. The exhibits, which include shipwreck artifacts and taxidermy of native wildlife, offered a fascinating glimpse into the islands’ story.
Another highlight was Christ Church Cathedral, the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world. Its adjacent Whalebone Arch, constructed from the jawbones of blue whales, is a striking symbol of the island’s whaling heritage. A walk along Ross Road, Stanley’s main thoroughfare, revealed more of the town’s charm, from the colorful Jubilee Villas to the Lady Elizabeth Shipwreck resting at the harbor’s edge.
My stay at the Malvina House Hotel was more than just a comfortable retreat. It was a warm embrace from the locals, offering a perfect mix of modern comfort and traditional charm. Overlooking Stanley Harbor, the hotel is known for its welcoming staff and hearty meals. The lamb, sourced from local farms, was a particular highlight, paired with a pint of locally brewed beer from Falkland Beerworks.
Sealion Island: A Wildlife Spectacle
The journey to Sealion Island began with a flight on a small FIGAS plane, which carried just a handful of passengers and limited baggage to 14 kilograms. The aircraft’s views, with its rugged coastline and scattered islands, were breathtaking. Landing on a grassy airstrip, I was met by Micky Reeves, the manager of the Sealion Island Lodge. I immediately felt the sense of isolation and calm that defines this place.
Sealion Island is a haven for wildlife. Gentoo penguins greeted me just steps from the lodge, their playful antics providing endless entertainment. A short walk revealed a colony of Rockhopper penguins perched on cliffs, their distinctive yellow crests fluttering in the wind. On the way back, I encountered Johnny Rooks—bold, curious birds that seemed as interested in me as I was in them.
Though simple, the lodge was cozy and welcoming. Meals featured locally sourced ingredients, and guests spent evenings sharing stories while the sun set over the island. Sealion Island felt like a world apart, a place where nature reigns and time slows down.
Carcass Island: A Conservation Success Story
Another FIGAS flight brought me to Carcass Island, renowned for its rodent-free environment, which has allowed native bird species to thrive. As I explored the island’s trails, I was captivated by the Cobb’s Wrens darting among the tussock grass and the bright red flashes of the Long-tailed Meadowlark.
Bonita and Derek Goodwin manage the Carcass Island House, which was more than just accommodation—it felt like staying with family. The meals were a highlight, featuring fresh-caught fish, homegrown vegetables, and baked goods made with care. Afternoon tea, or “smoko,” was a daily treat, with cakes and cookies served alongside local delicacies like teaberry scones. Bonita and Derek’s passion for conservation and the island’s history shone through in every conversation, making my stay informative and heartwarming.
Bleaker Island: Flat Landscapes, Big Wildlife
Bleaker Island’s name belies its charm. The flat terrain made it easy to explore, and its quiet beauty was captivating. My hosts, Nick Rendell and his mother, greeted me at the airstrip and took me on a tour of the island. A highlight was the sizeable cormorant colony, where hundreds of birds nested and dove gracefully into the sea. The beaches stretched endlessly, offering peaceful solitude and incredible photography opportunities.
I stayed at Cassard House, a cozy, eco-friendly lodge that perfectly matched the island’s laid-back atmosphere. Evenings here were simple but memorable, with delicious seafood dinners and the sound of waves as a constant companion. Bleaker Island was the perfect place to disconnect and immerse myself in nature.
Volunteer Point: A Penguin Paradise
Back in Stanley, I set out on a 4×4 adventure to Volunteer Point, home to the largest King Penguin colony in the Falklands. The drive was an adventure, crossing rugged terrain and wide-open landscapes. Arriving at Volunteer Point, I was greeted by a pristine white-sand beach teeming with hundreds of King Penguins. Their stately movements and vibrant orange markings made them unforgettable subjects for photos and observation.
Watching these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat was a humbling experience. Volunteer Point reminded me of why the Falklands are essential for wildlife conservation.
Cuisine in the Falklands: A Taste of Tradition
The food in the Falklands reflects the islands’ self-sufficient and practical way of life. Outside Stanley, meals were hearty and homemade, featuring slow-cooked mutton, freshly caught Patagonian toothfish, and vegetables grown on the islands. In Stanley, I explored various dining options, from the relaxed vibe of Shorty’s Diner to the more refined offerings at The Waterfront. Smoko was a daily highlight, with cakes, scones, and jams made from local berries like diddle-dee (a fantastic name!) and teaberry. And, of course, I had plenty of fish’n chips–locals say Falklanders are more British than the Brits, and I believe it!
The drinks were equally memorable. Locally brewed beers, like the Peat Cutter ale, were a perfect accompaniment to the Falklands’ hearty cuisine. A hot toddy—a mix of rum, hot water, and sugar—hit the spot for something warming on a chilly evening.
History and Heritage: A Deep Connection
Everywhere I went, the Falklands’ history was present. In Stanley, the British influence is clearly evident in architecture and culture, while the reminders of the 1982 conflict are never far away. On the outer islands, conservation efforts and sustainable living are testaments to the resilience and adaptability of the people who call this place home. The Falklands ‘ past and present are deeply intertwined, from the shipwrecks dotting the harbors to the carefully preserved bird habitats.
Why the Falklands Should Be on Your List
The Falkland Islands are a destination that defies comparison. Their combination of raw natural beauty, abundant wildlife, and rich history creates an experience that feels both adventurous and deeply personal. Whether standing among King Penguins at Volunteer Point, savoring a home-cooked meal at a remote lodge, or learning about the islands’ maritime heritage in Stanley, every moment feels authentic and unforgettable.
As I boarded my flight home from Mount Pleasant Airport, I felt deeply grateful for the chance to experience this unique corner of the world. The Falklands aren’t just a place to visit—they’re a place to connect, reflect, and be inspired by the power of nature and the stories of those who live alongside it.
