Canada
Fall in Love with Golden this Autumn
Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick
Once is enough for some destinations even if they have their own merits and charms. Other places call us back and the urge to return is strong. Golden, BC falls squarely in the latter category. We first visited six years ago and became enamored with this small mountain town with a big heart and even bigger mountain scenery.
Situated in the Valley of a Thousand Peaks, which separates the Rockies to the east and the Columbia Mountains to the west, there are six national parks within a two-hour drive: Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, Glacier and Mount Revelstoke.
Golden has an authentic, untouristy vibe with independent shops, cafés and restaurants, many of which are run by locals who visited for a winter of skiing or a summer of mountain biking and never left. We could understand their choice and were excited to be back. We discovered that some things had changed: The Golden Skybridge brought an exciting new attraction, and the downtown core was more pedestrian- friendly and inviting with a riverwalk path. What hadn’t changed were the mountain and river outdoor activities, the laidback friendly vibe and the sheer dramatic beauty of the region.
In all four seasons, Golden offers outdoor adventure with skiing and snowshoeing in the winter, rafting in the spring and hiking and mountain biking in the summer. Fall is also a special time when the larch trees change to the color of the town’s name, and the ground vegetation turns red. The snow has yet to cover it, but until it does, here are some of the best autumn activities that are sure to make you fall in love with Golden, too.
Cool off with a downtown walk along the river
“It’s a natural air-conditioner,” said Andy Brown, the town’s spokesperson. The fast-moving glacier fed Kicking Horse River with its year-round temperature of 3 – 4 °C (37-39 °F) cooled the air as we walked along the path of its bank. But until recently, we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy this effect.
“All this was just a back alley with garbage bins etc.,” said Andy.
Today, visitors can enjoy a multiuse trail, outdoor patios and even five-room boutique accommodations, Rooms at Riveredge. The path connects to the Rotary Trail, which follows the river and connects to parks and residential neighborhoods.
Central to this connectivity is the Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge, the longest freestanding covered bridge in Canada. Built from locally sourced timber, its impressive design reflects the heritage of the Swiss guides in Golden.
Teeter across Canada’s two highest suspension bridges at Golden Skybridge
At 426 feet above a massive canyon in the Columbia Valley, this is not an attraction for the acrophobic. But for most people, including ourselves, the burst of adrenaline is well-worth the thrilling view of rushing rivers and waterfalls, mountain peaks and thick forests. For more heart-thumping adventures there’s also the Sky Zipline, Canyon Edge Challenge Course, Railrider Mountain Coaster, Axe Throwing and the Giant Canyon Swing. Or you could just relax on the walking trails, take in the views at the lookout points and order up some nosh from the food trucks and have a picnic.
Hike the peaks of Glacier National Park
Canada’s second biggest park, Glacier, is situated in the Selkirk range of the Columbia Mountains, approximately 50 miles west of Golden. It’s home to the historic Rogers Pass, a route discovered in 1881 through the ‘impenetrable peaks’ that now join our nation from coast to coast. It’s also considerably less crowded than other parks in the area.
“For every 10 hikers at Banff or Yoho, there’s one there,” said Andy and revealed that it was his favourite.
Both the drive to reach the park and the hikes within its over 500-square-mile borders showcase spectacular glaciers and mountain peaks.
We hiked the Asulkan Valley Trail that took us past the remnants of Glacier House, which in the Gilded Age was the spot for the wealthy to vacation in this alpine wilderness that had been opened up by the CP railway. The trail then traversed scenery that was not unlike a Lord of the Rings movie with lush and verdant vegetation, multiple waterfalls, giant boulders, wildflowers and snow-capped peaks in all directions. The final section was a steep ascent that brought us above the treeline and rewarded our efforts with a view of the glacier and the Illecillewaet River below.
This was just one of many hikes on the park’s 87 miles of developed trails that range from short strolls along the valley floor to challenging steep glacier climbs.
Spot eagles and other wildlife in the Columbia Wetlands
At over 180 kilometers in length, this protected tract of land is home to over 300 species of birds, fish and other wildlife. Columbia Wetlands Adventures provide guided tours of this ecological treasure, or you can explore on your own with the rentals provided.
We were on a quiet and comfortable cataraft tour, which was the perfect anecdote for our tired legs from our previous hikes. Armed with binoculars, we relaxed as the guide navigated the meandering channels of the river and pointed out wildlife. We were lucky enough to spot two bald eagles along with osprey, herons and a beaver.
Explore Yoho National Park
Yoho originates from a Cree word that means ‘awe and wonder’, and there are plenty of spots to do just that in this national park, located 60 kilometers east of Golden. There are more than 400km of hiking trails within its boundaries, and highlights include Takakkaw Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in western Canada, and Lake O’Hara, a jewel-blue lake so incredible that you need to win the lottery to be able to take the shuttle to reach it. Emerald Lake is the largest of the park’s 60-plus lakes and lives up to its name with a glimmering deep turquoise colour. We strolled around this oh-s- photogenic lake, which was an easy 5k-loop but took longer than expected because each new vista beckoned for a photo.
Meet Boo at Kicking Horse Resort
This rescue grizzly bear has been making this mountain his home for 22 years and educating guests about his often-misunderstood species. The Kicking Horse Grizzly Bear Refuge was set up when Boo was orphaned and the 20-acre tract of mountain wilderness is now his to hunt, play and forage. The interpretive centre provides guests with information about grizzlies in general and Boo in particular.
We took part in the Ranger Assist Program (RAP), which gave us a behind-the-scenes look at his care and insight into his personality. Afterwards, we took the Golden Eagle Express Gondola up to the summit for a view once described as an infinity pool of mountains. We felt on top of the world both literally and figuratively, while we hiked the ridge trails and worked up an appetite for lunch at the Eagle Eye Restaurant. At 7,700 feet, it’s Canada’s highest restaurant, and while we enjoyed our tasty food and brew, we planned our next visit to Golden.
If you go: It’s less than three hours drive from Calgary International Airport or the Canadian Rockies International Airport in Cranbrook. We stayed at the Prestige Inn, which was a convenient and comfortable base to explore the area, and we especially enjoyed the hotel’s amenities that included the pool and hot tub. The town of Golden has very few chain stores or restaurants, and it was a pleasure to indulge in some of the local cuisine. Our favourites included Wandering Fern, Eleven22, Whitetooth Mountain Bistro, Reposados Tacos, Island Restaurant and Bluebird Café.
