Cruise
Greece’s Unexplored Aegean by Small-Ship Cruise Aboard Variety Cruises’ Panorama
Article and photography by Nicholas Kontis
During the summer vacations of my youth, my family and I visited relatives in Greece. I slept in spare bedrooms, on creaky couches, and even in a sleeping bag in backyards. However, my most cherished memory was sailing with an uncle who co-owned a 50-foot yacht. He took me on a voyage from my father’s home in Patras to the Ionian islands. I discovered pristine beaches that many tourists never see, enriching my Greek adventure with diverse encounters.
Later, silver-screen epics like Big Blue, an anthem to waters of the Aegean Sea; Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, a love story set on the island of Kefalonia; and the romantic comedy Mamma Mia!. with its star-studded cast, paved the way for a boom in tourism to Greece.
But it’s not as though Greece was ever absent from travelers’ radar. And the attraction is only growing. Lured by marvelous antiquities, over 200 inhabited islands with world-class beaches, and a tasty Mediterranean diet, over 30 million people set foot on Greek soil in 2023.
Greece’s leading small ship operator, Variety Cruises, anchors in secluded ports inaccessible to larger vessels. These include the islands of the northern Dodecanese and the less-visited isles of the Cyclades.
I find the appeal of small-ship cruising irresistible. A perfect example is Variety’s “Unexplored Greece” itinerary: Eight flawless days and eight islands with only 38 other guests on the luxury motor-sailing yacht Panorama. We enjoyed spacious cabins, elegant Mediterranean dining and a panoramic deck. We made impromptu stops for refreshing swims in hidden coves, shared meals with locals at seaside tavernas, and explored unspoiled islands without suffering the tourist crowds of Mykonos and Santorini tourists vying for sunset and windmill photos.
Athens and Ikaria
My wife and I spent our first night in Athens at The Athenaeum Hotel, a newly opened property adjacent to the labyrinthine city center of Plaka. The next day we boarded the Panorama at the port of Marina Zeas. The boarding process was smooth. As I stepped onto the deck, the warm sea breeze greeted me with the anticipation of adventures ahead.
Flexibility is crucial to any expedition sailing. Itineraries are not set in stone. Seasoned cruisers learn to expect the unexpected and go with the flow. Our first stop was at Ikaria Island, where one in three residents live to be at least 90 years old. But after a swim in the emerald waters of Seychelles Beach, a tanker maneuvered into our anchorage. So Captain Andreas Sifnotis announced that we would head straight to our next stop on Patmos.
Patmos
Skipping the afternoon and evening in Ikaria meant more time at the picturesque harbor of Skala on Patmos, northernmost of the Dodecanese group of 12 enchanted isles. On a half-day tour, we climbed to the Monastery of St. John the Theologian and visited the cave where the evangelist had the apocalyptic visions that led to the writing of the Book of Revelation.
The element of surprise and adventure — the thrill of not knowing what each day will bring — is one of the things that makes small-ship cruises unique and exhilarating. Each day, passengers can choose between an arranged excursion, exploring the island on their own, or merely basking in the sun.
Lipsi
Serendipity greeted us on Lipsi, whose population is only 700. Pilgrims from other islands joined locals to celebrate the feast of St. John of Klydonas, and we found ourselves experiencing true tradition. The people of Lipsi sang and danced as children jumped over the flames of burning floral wreaths to exorcise evil spirits. Dinner was on our own, which encouraged us to indulge in fresh fish at port-side restaurants. Some travelers detoured to a winery famous for its Aposperitis dessert wine served to Prince Charles and Camilla in Athens.
Kalymnos
On Kalymnos, we arrived in the late afternoon at the energetic port of Pothia, famous for its sponge divers. On a guided tour, we visited a Neoclassical house — built by proud native historian Mihalis Kyrannis — to see a curated collection of the island’s rich cultural tapestry and to learn about the brave men who dedicate their lives to sponge diving. I hired a cab to take me to the top of the island, to the stone monastery of the island’s patron saint, Agios Savvas. For dinner, my wife and I joined other guests from Argentina and Australia for a seafood feast at Mamouzelos Restaurant on the waterfront.
Amorgos
Our next island stop was one that I already knew. Amorgos is the undiscovered jewel of the Cyclades. Heavy winds prevented us from landing at the island’s main port of Katapola, so we docked at Aegialis instead. While many of my shipmates took a walking tour, I met with island matriarch Irene Giannakopoulos for a cooking demonstration at her lofty Aegialis Hotel & Spa. Later, I opted for a drive around the island to visit one of Greece’s most imposing landmarks, the Monastery of Hozoviotissa. Built into a rock face on the side of a cliff 300 feet above the sea, it offers far-reaching views of the evergreen and turquoise Aegean.
Serifos
Before returning to Athens, we stopped at Serifos, another island I had previously visited. At the port of Livadi, I rented a car for 30 euros and drove around the island, making swim stops at beaches frequented by only a handful of people. The lively port town leads upwards to the central village of Chora.
M/S Panorama
The Panorama goes where larger ships cannot. Its two dozen cozy cabins can accommodate 49 passengers. Amenities include private bathrooms, a TV, a small safe and a mini-fridge. A small lounge at the ship’s entrance boasts panoramic windows and a library of books about Greece. Guests share breakfast and either lunch or dinner in a large dining room; the menu features both Greek treats and international cuisine. An indoor bar and lounge area are on the upper deck. Outdoor areas include two sundecks. We usually sailed at night, waking up most days at new ports of call.
If your idea of paradise involves small-ship sailings in a land of mythical beauty with fewer than 50 guests, this Greek vacation may be your perfect holiday. You’ll see picturesque villages on less-explored islands, stop at clandestine coves and beaches, and dine on the freshest catch of the day at quiet ports of call. Variety Cruises’ “Unexplored Greece” is more than a passage to authentic Greece. It is a portal to immersing yourself in the true spirit of this ancient land.
