Stay & Play
Hoshino Resorts Kai Beppu
by Steve Gillick
When you enter your room at Hoshino Resorts Kai Beppu and exclaim, “Oh my Goodness”, you know you’re in for an extraordinary experience. The focus of each of the 70 Kai Signature rooms is the magnificent ocean view from the huge picture window that fully occupies one wall. And the pink-brown color of the walls, called Kakishibu or bitter persimmon, enhance the intensity of the view over Beppu Bay. The first reaction is to just sit on the sofa in front of the window and gaze in amazement.
But the Kai Beppu experience begins at the entrance to the ryokan when you are greeted by the smiling staff. Next, they escort visitors to Onsen Square in the lobby, where a huge picture window, a hand bath, and a foot bath allow guests to unwind and engage with the scenery. And the adventure continues as the culture and tradition of Beppu are reflected in this newly opened (July 2021) building designed by famed architect Kengo Kuma. A cobblestone alleyway leads to the arcade/meeting room, past the travel library, and on to the gift shop, the garden, and the onsen, or hot baths.
Taro Hirooka, the Assistant General Manager, explained that the ryokan reflected the atmosphere of the onsen town and that Beppu, with over 2000 onsen sources, was possibly the most renowned hot spring area in Japan.
The soothing indoor baths at Kai Beppu allow for relaxed hot water or warm water bathing while contemplating the ryokan’s peaceful Japanese garden. The waters leave the skin feeling soft and smooth.
Afterward, for a change of pace, the Night Fair in the lobby features colorful lanterns, self-serve ramen snacks, chuhai tasting (shoshu with fruit juice and liquor mixes), and family games.
At dinner time, guests descended a staircase under the Kengo Kuma-designed bamboo dragonfly chandelier, for a Kaiseki meal (multiple courses served in sequence) that was taste-bud heaven. It featured chicken, scallops, salmon, swordfish, fugu, sashimi, noodles, kabosu citrus (similar to lime), and local vegetables. Our server told us to ready our cameras for the spectacle as she lifted the top off the Bungo Nabe (seafood, chicken, and beef hot pot), and the steam poured out, simulating Beppu’s hot springs!
A final hotel event, the Toji Jug Band, was a fun way to end the day. Then, back in the room, with lights dimmed, the night view of the ocean and the comfortable beds lulled us to sleep.
The following day, after using the private hot spring tub on our balcony, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast before we sadly had to leave for our next destination.
The Hoshino Resort Kai Beppu is an amazing experience. The location is excellent, the staff are very friendly, the rooms are stunning, the views are spectacular, the onsen is so relaxing, and the food is outstanding. What more could a traveler need to pamper their travel curiosity and soothe their soul at the same time?
