India
India by Rail: A Taste of Luxury Aboard the Deccan Odyssey
Article and photography by Judi Cohen (TravelingJudi)
Despite visiting India five times, crisscrossing northern India by car, traveling many hours between cities, enduring chaotic airport transfers, and even cruising on small ships in the backwaters of Kerala and on the Brahmaputra River, I had never experienced one of the country’s legendary luxury trains.
Boarding the Deccan Odyssey in Delhi felt entirely different. This was not simply transportation. It was an elegant hotel on rails, like the floating boutique hotel atmosphere aboard the small ships I have come to adore.
India’s Royal Rail Legacy
Luxury rail travel has long held a romantic place in India’s history. The country’s great palace trains were inspired by the private carriages once used by maharajas and British viceroys, recreating the glamour of past train journeys.
About The Train
The Deccan Odyssey is a luxury private train that has operated since 2003. It is a joint venture between the Ministry of Railways, the government of India, the state government of Maharashtra, and EbixCash, which handles operations on and off the train.
Embarkation in Delhi
Embarkation was at the small Safdarjung railway station, where we were welcomed with marigold and jasmine garlands, a red carpet and a local pipe band on the platform.
Traditionally dressed staff, including Deccan Odyssey’s Vice President of Operations, Dashmeet Dheer and General Manager, Simarpal Singh Virdi, welcomed my husband and I warmly.
Over the next seven nights, the train would carry us from Delhi to Agra and deep into Rajasthan, through Ranthambore National Park, Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Jaipur before returning to Delhi.
Life Onboard The Deccan Odyssey
The 21-car train accommodates 88 passengers, however our voyage carried just 37 guests, and a staff complement of 48, giving the journey an almost private atmosphere.
The 10 deluxe accommodation cars and 2 presidential cars are positioned at either end of the train, with 5 public-space cars in between: a chic wood-panelled bar car; a games room car; a spa car with a salon, massage room, and a gym; and the two fine dining cars. The remaining cars were for staff and operations.
The train’s interior and exterior spoke volumes about the level of luxury. It’s burgundy and royal blue cars, decorated with traditional symbols and stories, combined with polished wood, brass accents, and warmly lit corridors created the atmosphere of a private club from a bygone era.
Our butler escorted us into one of four Presidential Suites on the train. It had an old-world design feel with modern comforts. Rich fabrics, carved details and traditional artwork paid homage to royal India. Two spacious bathrooms with full showers and amenities worthy of a 5-star hotel, along with excellent air conditioning, felt wonderfully indulgent.
The suite featured a full-size mirror, two large closets, a comfortable king bed with high quality linens and silk blankets, and an electronic safe. We were briefed on the use of the portable wi-fi device and local phone in our cabin along with emergency information, including the contact number for the train’s paramedic, who accompanied guests on excursions if medical assistance was required. All meals, transportation and tours are included in the tariff.
I had been nervous about sleeping on a moving train. Yet even with the rocking and clickety-clack of the tracks, I enjoyed a surprisingly restful sleep.
During the daytime journeys between stations and cities, I could sit quietly in the lounge, at a table in the dining car, or lie on my bed gazing through panoramic windows as we passed villages, farmland and desert landscapes. Women in brightly coloured saris walked dusty roads, children waved from crossings, farmers tended their livestock and fields, and cows and dogs wandered freely along the tracks and village streets.
An Extraordinary Culinary Experience
The two restaurant cars feature ornate hand-carved furniture with vivid floral-motif wallpaper. Both serve the same menu from two compact kitchens, so we alternated between them throughout the voyage.
Rather than buffets, each meal’s menu was presented in shimmering silk folders with multiple Indian and international choices. Vegetarian options were always available, and the spice level was happily adjusted to suit our tastes.
Dinner often stretched for hours as guests from Sweden, England, United States, Canada, and India exchanged stories from the day’s excursions. Open seating allowed us to socialise with fellow travelers or enjoy a romantic dinner alone.
Lavish regional Indian thalis served on large brass plates with warm breads became my favourites, while international dishes inspired by French, Italian and Thai cuisine tended to be my husband’s first choice.
What stood out most was the extraordinary level of service both on and off the train. By the second day, knew our names. Favourite drinks appeared without asking. Returning from excursions, we were welcomed with cold towels and refreshments as though arriving back at a luxury hotel.
Highlights Along the Route
At nearly every station, we were greeted with floral garlands, musicians, drummers, and dancers escorting us to waiting minibuses.
Agra: The Taj Mahal
In Agra, where on previous visits, I experienced long walks to the entry gates and lengthy queues in sweltering heat, Deccan Odyssey guests received VIP treatment, with drop off and pick up immediately beside the entrance to the Taj Mahal.
Without waiting in line, we had ample time to absorb the beauty and architectural perfection of this enduring symbol of love and loss. Our visit was followed by a gemstone cutting demonstration, an elaborate lunch at a city hotel, and a tour of the sandstone Agra Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, before returning to the train.
Sawai Madhopur Ranthambore Tiger Reserve
Before dawn, we climbed into safari jeeps and headed into the Ranthambore National Park in search of a Bengal tiger. Although the golden sunrise and chilly drive through the reserve were spectacular, the elusive tigers did not appear during our visit.
Tip: Park authorities have introduced new regulations prohibiting mobile phone use inside the park. Standard digital cameras are still permitted.
Udaipur: Romance on the Lakes
Udaipur felt tranquil and uncrowded as the sun rose over Lake Pichola during a morning cruise. Sailing past white palaces and historic ghats reflected in the calm water, became one of the most romantic moments of the journey.
The excursion included an exceptional buffet lunch at Raj Palace hotel and a visit to the dazzling royal artefacts displayed at the Crystal Gallery.
Jodhpur: Rajasthan’s Blue City
We visited Mehrangarh Fort early in the morning before temperatures climbed, taking in magnificent views above the blue-painted houses of Jodhpur.
Following lunch aboard the train, we explored the city on foot, stopping at a historic stepwell where locals and tourists gathered, before wandering through the bustling and chaotic Clock Tower Market.
Jaisalmer: The Golden City
The honey-coloured sandstone of Jaisalmer Fort glowed warmly in the morning light as we walked through the narrow lanes winding between centuries-old buildings, that remain inhabited today.
As the heat intensified, we returned to the train for lunch before heading into the Thar Desert dunes for a sunset camel ride.
Jaipur: The Pink City
Our final stop before returning to Delhi was Jaipur, known as the Pink City, though I would describe it as salmon-coloured. Passing the Hawa Mahal and exploring the ornate City Palace, Jaipur delighted everyone in our group, as did the vibrant textiles, busy streets and ornate architecture throughout the city.
Why Luxury Rail Works So Well in India
On previous trips using private drivers and intercity flights, it had taken me nearly two weeks to visit all the destinations included on this itinerary. Travelling between cities overnight on a luxury train proved to be an efficient way to experience the region in a shorter time.
India is exhilarating, but it can also be exhausting. Distances are long, airports are crowded, and roads can be overwhelming. The Deccan Odyssey removed nearly all the logistical strain while preserving the richness and intensity that make India so compelling.
I created new memories in Rajasthan’s celebrated palaces, forts, and vibrant bazaars. Yet my fondest memories were made aboard the train itself: the sensational meals, the staff for whom no request seemed too much, and the camaraderie among well-traveled guests.
By the end of the journey, the train itself had become the destination.
