Japan
Lavishing Between the Past and Future in Stately Tokyo
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
Tokyo has a way of drawing you into its essence. It’s a city that seems to pulsate with life while quietly holding the weight of history. My journey to this electric yet serene metropolis was a kaleidoscope of moments, each offering a glimpse of Tokyo’s many contrasts—between the ultra-modern and the deeply traditional, between the buzzing chaos of its streets and the quiet reverence of its shrines. Staying at the Shibuya Stream Hotel, I was perfectly positioned in the vibrant heart of Shibuya. With its sleek, contemporary design and thoughtful amenities, the hotel felt like an urban oasis, offering stunning city views and immediate access to Shibuya Station. Its proximity to bustling shopping streets, local dining spots, and the iconic Scramble Crossing made it an ideal base for my adventures in Tokyo.
Shibuya: Where Chaos Meets Connection
The Shibuya Scramble Crossing is Tokyo’s beating heart, and stepping into it feels like entering a river of humanity. Hundreds of people move in all directions, a chaotic choreography that miraculously avoids collisions. From the second-floor café windows overlooking the crossing, I sipped my coffee, marveling at the symphony of life below. Shibuya is not just a district—it’s a microcosm of Tokyo’s vibrant energy. The Shibuya Stream Hotel offered easy access to all this action, situated just steps from the train station, a crucial convenience in a city like Tokyo.
Ajigawa Sumo Stable: A Glimpse into Tradition
The morning at Ajigawa Sumo Stable offered a stark contrast to the hustle of Shibuya. The dojo was a temple of discipline, where wrestlers, clad in mawashi, practiced in silence, their every move deliberate and powerful. Watching their training was humbling—it felt like stepping into another world. Their dedication to perfecting ancient techniques is a reminder that in Tokyo, tradition is never far beneath the surface of modernity.
Asakusa: Senso-ji Temple and Nakamise Street
No trip to Tokyo would be complete without a visit to Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa. Walking beneath the iconic red Kaminarimon Gate, I was greeted by the fragrance of incense wafting through the air. The temple itself, with its striking five-story pagoda, stood as a testament to Tokyo’s enduring spirituality. Adjacent Nakamise Street, a bustling shopping arcade lined with stalls selling everything from hand-painted fans to freshly made mochi, was a feast for the senses. I couldn’t resist sampling ningyo-yaki, sweet cakes filled with red bean paste, as I wandered through this historic district.
Ramen: A Culinary Pilgrimage
Lunch that day was a steaming bowl of ramen at a small, tucked-away shop. The rich broth, perfectly cooked noodles, and tender slices of pork belly were a revelation. Ramen in Tokyo isn’t just food; it’s an art form, with each bowl telling a story. Seated elbow-to-elbow with locals, slurping enthusiastically, I felt a kinship with the city.
Ueno Ameyoko: Tokyo’s Old-School Bazaar
Ueno’s Ameyoko market is a sensory overload in the best way possible. This bustling street market is a labyrinth of vendors selling everything from fresh seafood to quirky souvenirs. I found myself bargaining for dried squid snacks and sampling takoyaki (octopus balls) at a roadside stall. The energy here was infectious, a throwback to Tokyo’s post-war days when this area was a hub of black-market trade.
Tokyo Station & Daimaru’s Gourmet Wonderland
Stepping into Tokyo Station felt like entering a modern cathedral dedicated to transit. Its sprawling halls and impeccable architecture gave way to one of my favorite discoveries: the food floor at Daimaru Department Store. This was not your average food court—it was a gourmet paradise. I indulged in delicate sushi, intricately decorated wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets), and freshly baked melonpan. It’s impossible to leave empty-handed—or hungry.
Reaching for the Skies: Tokyo Tower and Azabudai Hills
The iconic Tokyo Tower, standing proud in its Eiffel-like elegance, was my next stop. As the elevator climbed, I watched the city unfurl beneath me. From the observation deck, the view was breathtaking—a patchwork of skyscrapers, shrines, and gardens stretching to the horizon. Nearby, the newly developed Azabudai Hills offered a modern counterpoint with its sleek architecture and upscale shops. The juxtaposition of old and new, traditional and futuristic, was striking.
A Sacred Ceremony: Meiji Jingu Shrine Wedding
At the tranquil Meiji Jingu Shrine, nestled within a lush forest, I stumbled upon a wedding ceremony. The bride, dressed in an elaborate white kimono, and the groom, in traditional hakama, were a vision of elegance. The procession moved gracefully through the shrine grounds, accompanied by the solemn sound of taiko drums. Witnessing this sacred moment felt like an invitation into the heart of Japanese culture—a memory I’ll carry forever.
Harajuku: The Pulse of Youth Culture
Harajuku is a vibrant explosion of color, fashion, and creativity. Takeshita Street, lined with quirky shops and cafés, was alive with the laughter of teenagers dressed in every imaginable style. I joined the queue for a rainbow-colored cotton candy, a whimsical treat that felt right at home here. A short walk away, Cat Street offered a more subdued vibe, with boutique shops and trendy cafés. It was a reminder that even in the heart of Tokyo’s youth culture, there’s room for sophistication.
Kura Revolving Sushi Bar: A Dining Adventure
Lunch at Kura Revolving Sushi Bar was both a meal and an experience. Plates of sushi glided past on a conveyor belt, each bite-sized creation a masterpiece. The thrill of picking a dish as it passed by was matched only by the quality of the sushi itself. Tokyo’s culinary scene never ceases to amaze, blending tradition with innovation.
Stand-Up Sake Bars & Okonomiyaki restaurant
By sheer coincidence, our senior travel writer, Steve Gillick, and his partner Mitsuru, happened to be on their annual visit to Japan during my stay. As fate would have it, we crossed paths on their first night in Tokyo and my last. To mark the occasion, we shared a fabulous slice of Japan at Orihara Shoten, a cozy stand-up sake bar in Monzen-Nakacho, where we savored a selection of premium sakes while exchanging stories of our adventures. The evening continued with a delightful dinner at Kondo Honten in Tsukishima, a renowned okonomiyaki-style restaurant. Cooking the savory pancakes at our table while laughing and reflecting on our journeys was the perfect way to close my pan-Japan tour. It was a night to remember—full of flavor, camaraderie, and a shared love for all things Japan.
Final Reflections
Tokyo is a city of contrasts and surprises, where every corner holds the promise of discovery. Whether it’s the serene beauty of a shrine, the pulsating energy of a market, or the culinary artistry of a ramen shop, each experience adds a layer to the city’s complex identity. Staying at the Shibuya Stream Hotel placed me at the heart of it all, allowing me to weave seamlessly between Tokyo’s many facets.
As I boarded my plane home, I couldn’t help but feel that Tokyo had left an indelible mark on my soul. It’s a place that demands to be explored, savored, and experienced—a city that truly lives up to its reputation as both stately and dynamic.
