USA

SS Badger: A Floating Landmark

by Randy Mink

Anticipating my trip to the shores of western Michigan, I was most looking forward to a Lake Michigan crossing aboard a well-preserved relic from another era—the car ferry SS Badger. The vintage vessel is one of only two mobile National Historic Landmarks (the other being San Francisco’s cable cars).

The four-hour “cruise” from Ludington, Michigan to Manitowoc, Wisconsin is more than just going from Point A to Point B. It’s an experience in itself, something I’d wanted to do ever since hearing about the last coal-fired passenger steamship operating in the United States. Built in 1953 to carry railroad cars across Lake Michigan, the SS Badger, gearing up for its 72nd season, is the last of 14 Ludington-based car ferries still transiting this inland sea.

Besides transporting up to 600 passengers, the seven-story vessel, named after the University of Wisconsin athletic teams, hauls cars, RVs, motorcycles, tour buses and freight-carrying trucks, even farm and industrial equipment, but no longer trains.

I kept so busy during the 60-mile trip that time sped by. When we docked in Manitowoc, I wasn’t ready to get off, so I lingered on deck watching the young car attendants retrieve passengers’ cars from the cargo hold, drive them onto the dock and run back for the next one.

Afloat, many of us spent a good chunk of time playing bingo and trivia (for prizes) in the ship’s Main Lounge. I also visited the gift shop, perused car ferry exhibits in the museum room, and stood at the rail taking in the vast blue expanses of Lake Michigan while watching for freighters. For relaxing, benches and chairs are scattered throughout the two passenger decks, indoors and out. You can walk around the entire ship; six laps equals a mile.

For those who desire rest or privacy, the vessel has 40 staterooms equipped with two beds, a sink and toilet.

Some passengers passed the time playing cards and board games in one of the lounges, while others read a book or napped under a blanket in a lounger at the bow. Younger travelers watched animated movies in the theater or played Pac-Man in the arcade. There’s even a playroom for toddlers. Each deck has food and drink service—think hot dogs, bratwurst, burgers, pizza, popcorn, soft pretzels, nachos, salads, fruit cups, ice cream treats.

It’s advisable to bring an extra layer of clothing, as temperatures out on the “high seas” are 10 to 15 degrees cooler than ashore. For about an hour there’s no land to be seen. The Badger travels at an average speed of 18 mph or 15.6 knots.

The one-way adult fare in 2025 is US $86 in summer (June 20-September 1), $75 in spring and fall. Autos are $99. From May 16 to October 12, the Badger departs Ludington daily at 9 a.m., from Manitowoc at 2 p.m. There are night crossings as well. Keep in mind that Ludington is in the Eastern time zone, Manitowoc in the Central.

In the delightful resort town of Ludington, I spent two days seeing the sights while based at the 1903 Stearns Hotel. Besides drifting between downtown specialty shops, I checked out the Port of Ludington Maritime Museum, where one exhibit focuses exclusively on the Badger, and climbed up historic lighthouses at the harbor entrance and in Ludington State Park.

In Manitowoc, don’t miss the first-rate Wisconsin Maritime Museum and touring its WWII submarine. The town’s best photo op, close to the Badger terminal, is the statue of a badger, the official state animal.

www.ssbadger.com

www.pureludington.com

www.manitowoc.info