Canada
Sublimity of the Mountain Peaks
Waterton Lakes National Park
Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick
NNational Parks exist in order that every citizen of Canada may satisfy a craving for Nature and Nature’s beauty: that we may absorb the poise and restfulness of the forests; that we may steep our souls in the brilliance of the wildflowers and the sublimity of the mountain peaks; that we may develop in ourselves the joy and activity we see in the wild animals…”
James B. Harkin, the first Commissioner of Dominion Parks (now Parks Canada), was referring to all of Canada’s national parks when he wrote that in the 1930s, but I can’t help feeling that he was thinking of Waterton Lakes in particular. Located three hours south of Calgary in the Rocky Mountains, this sublime park borders Montana’s Glacier Park National Park in the US. In fact, the two parks and the two nations came together in 1932 to form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. It was the first partnership of its kind in the world and a symbol of peace and goodwill between Canada and the US.
When we took a cruise from the Canadian side to the US, it was impossible to tell the difference as the same deep-blue mountain lake met a forested treeline that stretched up to the dramatic, snow-covered peaks. The only way to know where one country ended, and the other began was a signpost in a narrow clearing.
The foresight of both countries to protect this beautiful landscape over a 100 years ago has certainly paid off. It’s now home to over half of Alberta’s plant species (including rare orchids and wildflowers), 250 species of birds and 60 species of mammals.
Waterton is also a community with many family-owned businesses, restaurants and outfitters, so whether it’s the ‘poise and restfulness’ or the ‘joy and activity’ you’re seeking in a national park, here’s a sampling of things to do:
• Indulge in afternoon tea at the historic Prince of Wales Hotel.
• Observe celestial bodies with Dark Sky Tours. As a designated dark sky preserve, Waterton keeps artificial light at a minimum to reveal the night sky in all its starry brilliance.
• Hike up Bear’s Hump, a short but steep trek that’s worth every huff and puff for the views of the town amongst the mountain peaks. It’s one of over 50 hikes available on the park’s 200+ kms of trails.
• Relax with a view on the balcony of Bayshore Inn, a family-owned lodge right on the shores of Waterton Lake.
• Enjoy meals that range from upscale Italian at Red Rock Trattoria to family friendly wood-fired pizzas at Trappers Mountain Grill and the casual Wieners of Waterton, whose gourmet hot dogs have almost a cult following.
• Channel your inner cowboy/girl with a horseback ride at Alpine Stables. This two-hour adventure takes you through changing landscapes with gorgeous viewpoints.
• Bike the Chief Mountain Highway. Rent e-bikes at Pat’s Waterton and pedal from the prairies to the mountains.
Flying down the highway, the sublimity of the mountain peaks we passed defied any superlative, and I was grateful that our national parks existed.
