Canada
The Road to Twillingate, Newfoundland & Labrador
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
In 2023, Twillingate, the Iceberg Capital of the World, located along Iceberg Alley, witnessed fields of sea ice and a flotilla of icebergs floating and drifting from Greenland during the mid-May to mid-June viewing season.
And never having seen an iceberg before, Twillingate was immediately placed on our 2024 travel list. But nature is nature and can’t be planned. There were no icebergs to be seen. The closest we got to an iceberg was when we quaffed a few pints of Quid Vidi Iceberg Lager. However, we were not disappointed when we discovered the area’s outstanding beauty.
Twillingate is a town in Notre Dame Bay on the East Coast of Newfoundland and Labrador, about 1 ½ hours north of Gander and 5 hours north of St. John’s, the provincial capital. The name derives from French fishermen in the 17th century who called the area “Toulinquet”, after a group of islands off the French coast.
Travelers know that sometimes the best adventures are often serendipitous. Instead of driving straight from St. John’s to Twillingate and hopping on a boat to find icebergs and Atlantic Puffins, we changed plans at the last minute. Someone tipped us off about the town of Elliston. And so, we drove 3 ½ hours north of St. John’s to the “Puffin Viewing Site” in Elliston to see Atlantic Puffins flying, landing, burrowing, nuzzling, and clamoring on an island rock only a few hundred yards away and also on the land right beside us. Then, we drove ten minutes to the lighthouse in Bonavista, where the breathtaking coastal, crashing-water scenery was complemented by Atlantic Puffins doing their thing. Both visitors with high-end cameras and cell phones were absolutely thrilled.
And from Bonavista, it was a 4-hour drive to Twillingate through small villages and along forested highways. We crossed the Tickle Bridge that joins the town’s south and north islands and began to explore.
As nature enthusiasts, we headed to the village of Crow Head just 7 minutes away. The Long Point Lighthouse has dramatic views of the ocean and high, steep cliffs (with no guard rails), but also bounding Snowshoe Hares and territorial White-throated Sparrows. Several trails head along the coast in different directions, revealing incredible seascapes and colorful birds, such as the Boreal Chickadee and the White-winged Crossbill.
Back in town, we visited the Twillingate Museum, which features local history; the Durell Museum, where we learned about Titus the Polar Bear’s town visit in 2000, and about the now-extinct Great Auk, a penguin-looking bird; and a stop at the Auk Island Winery, where featured brands include Mummers Wine, Moose Joos and Funky Puffin.
Breakfast at Annie’s was a treat. We enjoyed tasty homemade fish cakes and eggs served with a warm smile and conversation.
For dinner, we headed to Georgie’s, where, aside from our Iceberg Lagers, the Anchor Salad, with Cranberries, Partridge Berry, Feta, Grapes, and Red Onion was refreshingly delicious. This was followed by freshly steamed lobster with drawn butter. So good!
Our trip to Twillingate was an eye-opener to the area’s unbelievable scenery, nature trails, food, and hospitality. Plans are to return next year – whether there are icebergs or not!
