Mexico
Triple Play in Los Cabos
by Linda Barnard
Variety adds spice to travel life, so make a Los Cabos cape escape a triple play with lively Cabo San Lucas, artsy sister town San José del Cabo and peaceful Todos Santos, one of Mexico’s designated culturally rich Pueblos Mágicos (magical towns).
From Todos Santos to East Cape
Los Cabos — the capes in English — wraps around the southern edge of Baja California Sur, Mexico, the long peninsula that runs down the Pacific coast of the country.
There are lots of “Los Cabos” names here, which can be confusing to newcomers.
Los Cabos is the name of the region that stretches roughly from Todos Santos 50 miles to the northwest, to the East Cape on the other side of the peninsula. Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo are the two main communities, linked by the 20-mile-long Scenic Route. This stretch of Hwy. 1 has dozens of hotels, from all-inclusive stays to villas, residences and luxury five-star resorts.
It took until the 1970s for tourism to reach the region with the opening of the coastal Highway 1 route. In the 1950s, Cabo San Lucas was a small fishing town that became a favourite hidden getaway for Hollywood royalty. It drew sports fishermen who found their marlin paradise here.
Famous faces still flock here for privacy and desert-meets-the-sea beauty. Jennifer Aniston has been called “the Queen of Cabo” for her fondness for the destination and recreational anglers still find their bliss at Cabo San Lucas. There were several excited anglers on my flight making their way to the annual Bisbee’s Black and Blue Marlin Tournament.
Top Mexican destination
Today Los Cabos is among Mexico’s top tourist destinations. The predictable, sunny weather is a big draw. So is the proliferation of creative gastronomy, underscored by the arrival of Michelin Guides in Mexico in 2024. Cocina De Autor at all-inclusive Grand Velas Resorts earned a coveted Michelin Star. Two Green Stars and 14 Michelin recommendations have been awarded to restaurants across Los Cabos.
San José del Cabo
San José del Cabo-born food and cultural guide Diana Gutierrez says her hometown has something else that today’s travelers crave: authentic experiences.
“People are longing for connection and heart. Authenticity is the new luxury,” Gutierrez said as she showed us her hometown.
We strolled through San José del Cabo’s small, historic heart into the Plaza Mijares main square for the weekly Thursday Art Walk. It’s a perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir and get a taste of local life. The square has shops on three sides and a church on the site of the original Jesuit mission. There were food stands and a busker played Beatles songs on a saxophone. The space was filled with tourists, locals and playing kids. People chatted with artists about their work.
Our small group ambled along pedestrian-only streets in the Gallery District, past fine art shops and chic boutiques. The three-block Gastronomic District has more than 30 places to eat and drink.
We looped back to the square to buy crispy tostadas piled with refried beans, ground beef, shredded cheese and crema from a food stall where the vendor has been making tamales and tacos for 30 years.
Connection and heart
A few nights later, I came back to the square to join a few dozen people of all ages in a free salsa class led by an upbeat instructor. Nearby, Barcelona writer and world traveler Ricardo Fite had set up a large telescope. He’s fulfilling his dream to be a global nomad and has already ridden a motorcycle from his hometown to Ulan Bataar, Mongolia. People lined up to pay 20 pesos (about $2) as Fite helped them view Saturn and its moon Titan. I was down to the last 20 pesos of my trip and handed it over for the gift of a voyage to space. Connection and heart delivered as promised.
Where to stay: San José del Cabo
Wake up to birdsong in a chic treehouse in the palm forest canopy at luxury Acre Resort, situated on 25 acres in the Ánimas Bajas hills near San José de Cabo. The treehouses have comfy beds, outdoor showers and treetop terraces. The privacy and bespoke boho style helped the resort climb to No. 3 on Cosmopolitan’s 44 Sexiest Hotels in The World. Acre also has beautifully designed villas and haciendas, two pools and an animal sanctuary.
Open-air Acre Restaurant and Bar recently picked up a Michelin Green Star for blending gastronomy and environmental stewardship with creative contemporary Mexican cuisine. Chef David Fajardo sources many of his ingredients from Acre’s organic farm. The soft-shelled crab tacos and butterflied whole fish coated with a citrusy-tangy dry chili rub and served with house-made tortillas were standouts. Acclaimed Napa chef Thomas Keller has been known to eat in this romantic dining room. Kick off the evening with a guided tequila tasting led by sommelier and mezcalier José Martinez in the Colibrí Cantina.
If the old town’s historic streets are calling, renovated historic Tropicana Los Cabos, a Tapestry by Hilton, is a great place to stay. It has traditional style and tiling, impressive outdoor sculptures and two restaurants, including Mexican-Mediterranean Cocina de Las Californias. Take part in free activities from yoga to bike tours.
Where to eat: San José del Cabo
La Lupita Taco & Mezcal serves excellent, creative tacos with a unique energy. I loved the house band and watching the busy tortilla chef making her magic in the middle of the bustling dining room. The chili-rubbed, grilled shrimp topped in a cheese crust tortilla topped with cricket mayonnaise was fantastic. Across the street, Ruba’s Bakery is a cozy artisanal bakery in a 1940s casita. It earned a Michelin recommendation for its impressive breads and pastries. A great brunch spot.
Head to the farm
Take an outdoor cooking class under shaded canopies at Flora Farms to learn the secrets of making great guacamole, salsas and tamales and leave with a book of recipes that will turn your home kitchen into an authentic cantina. Classes end with a delicious fish taco lunch, including dishes participants had a hand in making. Finish with Flora’s famous key lime pie. This food-lovers destination on a 25-acre working organic vegetable, herb and fruit farm has Michelin recognized restaurant Flora’s Field Kitchen, along with a number of lovingly curated shops including HIVE Fragrance Studio.
What to do: Cabo San Lucas
The impressive granite arch El Arco, the Arch, rises from the Sea of Cortez as the symbol of glittering Cabo San Lucas. The southern edge of the peninsula marks Land’s End. Experience the Arch and nearby Pelican Rock up close with a boat cruise adventure. Head to the city’s heart, the Marina Cabo San Lucas, where super yachts share space with sport fishing charters. Cabo Sailing, which offers group and private excursions, took us on a three-hour snorkel, swim and paddleboard cruise, including lunch and drinks. They also have three-hour sunset sail and private charters. Our captain pointed out the sights and noisy seals as we made for the crystalline turquoise water off the white sand beach of Santa Maria Bay. Starting each December, whale watching tours depart with passengers eager to see majestic humpbacks arrive to their winter home in the Sea of Cortez, dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by underwater pioneer Jacques Cousteau.
Where to stay: Cabo San Lucas
The five-star The Cape, a Thompson Hotel makes the most of its Monuments Beach location, where surfers ride the waves and beachcombers stroll along the sand. Every room and all public areas of the chic hotel have a view of the sea and photogenic Arch. The hotel has a dramatic urban elegance with lush design, including an open-air lobby with glass panels that make it appear to hang over the ocean. There are two pools, swim-up bar and a rooftop cocktail lounge. Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera of the two-Michelin starred restaurant Pujol created the menu for Manta, whose cuisine was recognized by Michelin Guide for “contemporary Mexican cuisine punctuated by clear Peruvian and Japanese influences.” The fantastic weekend brunch is worth getting up for.
Peaceful Todos Santos
About an hour’s drive from Cabo San Lucas, peaceful Todos Santos is like a step back into traditional old Mexico. It’s been named one of the country’s Pueblos Magicos, places that preserve culture, history and natural beauty in a way that feels magical to visitors.
This quiet former fishing and onetime sugar cane growing region on the Pacific is in the middle of a lush green desert oasis on the Tropic of Cancer. That gives it some of the best weather in the southern Baja. It’s no surprise visitors have been finding their Bohemian escape here for years. Surfers are drawn to the waves off pristine and uncrowded white sand beaches.
In town, narrow streets are lined with handsome heritage brick buildings that are reborn as chic hotels and boutiques. Browse contemporary art galleries and studios. There’s also plenty of street art, especially sculptures, great shopping and a well-preserved circa-1944 theater and cinema.
Antonio Wong opened The Hotel California here in 1950, long before the Eagles’ hit song about a mysterious hotel where guests check in but can never leave. Visitors may assume the hotel inspired the song, which it didn’t. The Eagles launched a lawsuit some years ago, but the name remains. The once-derelict hotel has been reborn as a boutique stay. Have a drink in the bar, buy a Hotel California T-shirt or stay in one of the 11 rooms.
Where to eat: Todos Santos
Sugar Mill Market was built on the site of the former Santa Terra Sugar Mill to resemble a 19th-century building. It houses sprawling Oystera, a stylish jungle-like eatery that combines fine dining with retail. Recognized by the Michelin Guide, it’s the only oyster bar in Baja and serves a variety of Mexican oysters, as well as selections from U.S. and Canadian waters. A block away, Santo Chilote is known for fish tacos. A walk around the quiet streets will probably lead you to a small family run taco stand or taqueria. Stop for dessert at the Agricole stand for a cup of succulent sliced strawberries in sweet cream, a local favourite.
Vino Park is next to the Sugar Mill Market, within the green Santa Terra Reserve. Pick up a picnic basket or a wood-oven pizza to enjoy al fresco along with a glass of Mexican wine.
