Tunisia
Tunisia – A Country with a Heart of Gold!
Article and photography by Michael Morcos
Fourth time lucky? That sounds funny but if it was true, then I would be four times lucky to visit this incredibly beautiful and diverse country of Tunisia. Everything is always just fine in this Mediterranean paradise. The destinations and attractions are varied, going from the lush mountains by the sea in the north to the beautiful but arid climate of the Sahara Desert. As always, the food is fantastic, we always eat well in Tunisia with culinary delights that have influences from North Africa, the Middle East and even a hint of French gastronomy. And the people, they have a heart of gold, always polite and friendly.
Having already discovered the four corners of Tunisia, I would now retrace some of my favorite places and revisit many great sites and see if life has changed in a rapidly changing world. On this journey, I would stay mostly in the north and not far from the sea.
Hammamet
Hammamet has proven to be one of my all-time favorite seaside cities. With an eye on tourism, there is a historic fort, fascinating marina, opulent resorts on the sea and the compact but wonderful old medina. This is where a visitor can lose themselves in endless winding narrow allies with whitewashed buildings all along the way. And that is exactly what I did, admiring the atmosphere of locals in their everyday life. Looking for a break and with a growing appetite, we would have a great lunch at the well-known seafood specialty restaurant Le Barberousse.
Le Barbarossa, located on the ramparts of the old medina, offers a great dining experience with some local favorites and Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The setting also offers a glimpse into the past of the city and is a wonderfully romantic spot overlooking the bay of Hammamet. My senses and my stomach were both filled to bursting!
Nabeul Ceramics
Years of perfecting their art has made this family run business a little gem. With so much pottery coming from industrial factories, it was refreshing to see how this place still produces simple works of art by loving, caring and talented hands. Just about anything made with clay can be found here on the two levels of their store. The basement is where the shaping, painting, and firing of the ceramics takes place. If you can, try to enjoy the demonstration that harkens back to simpler days.
Although I have bought many such items in the past, most of which still adorn by home and friends’ places and still I could not resist adding to my collection. After all they were beautiful and all so affordable.
Kairouan
Kairouan is considered the fourth most important religious cities for Muslims after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. Here we would visit the Great Mosque of Kairouan, the Basins of the Aghlabids, and walk along the walls of the fort and experience local life at the souk.
I was taken away by the majestic Great Mosque, incredible detail in its architecture. Dating from the early ninth century, this masterpiece shares much with ancient Roman lighthouses, and is something to behold. It is also one of the highest structures around and offers a great view.
I am always taken aback in these historical locals by the feats of engineering and construction that stand the test of time. Here it’s the impressive Aghlabid Basins, a massive feat of engineering built during the 9th century by the Aghlabid Dynasty. It has provided water for townspeople in Kairouan who would otherwise be in perpetual drought. It’s considered the largest hydraulic installation of the Middle Ages.
The souk is a place of marvels and wonders. To fully appreciate it, put aside several hours to explore the boutiques that line the streets selling everything you could imagine. Filled with life, bright colors and a festive vibe, the shop keepers are helpful and a joy to deal with.
El Jem
The Amphitheatre of El Jem is the main draw in sleepy city, and their Roman coliseum is one of the best preserved in the world. I loved the visit here. What I can appreciate the most was that there was practically no one on site, this city being a little out of the way. We had this colossal space all to ourselves to explore and discover. This is a gem to any fan of ancient sites and well worth a half day visit.
Sousse
While in Sousse, a visit to the Archaeological Museum is a must. It has some of the best-preserved roman mosaics anywhere in the world. As in the other cities, a visit through history is in the offing while walking through the medina, the Great Mosque of Sousse, the Souk District, the Ribat and the Kasbah will round out your trip. A little further out the wonderful beaches of Port el Kantaoui with its white sands and blue waters and access to chic boutiques, golf courses and shoreside restaurants on the central Tunisian coast.
Tunis
As an international city, the capitol is the heartbeat of this great country. Tunis has it all, from its old quarters and small streets to grand boulevards, world class museums, exceptional cuisine, landmark buildings, souks, and markets. It deserves an article of its own, and this vibrant city should be a must for any Tunisian tour.
Sidi Bou Said
The best for last and a great place to end our tour. Sidi Bou Said is a small hilly town on the meditereanean and is popular with both the locals and visitors alike. Its laid-back atmosphere makes for a comfortable and relaxing trip. One could have a meal and refreshments at a number of establishments, but my favourite is the Cafe des Delices that overlooks the harbour and offers unbelievable sunsets. One visit to Sidi Bou Said is never enough just the same one visit to this beautiful country is only the start to many more lucky returns to the country with a heart of Gold!
