Mexico
Uncorked! The full-bodied Taste of Aguascalientes, Mexico
Article and photography by Steve Gillick
El vino es la respuesta… ¿Cuál era la pregunta? Wine is the answer…what is the question?
The simple message on a blackboard sign stood next to one of the French Oak barrels at the entrance to Santa Elena, one of the 50 wineries along the Ruta del Vino in the Mexican state of Aguascalientes.
The “question” resonates in a very personal way. It could relate to the discovery and fun of wine tasting and the conviviality of sharing a bottle made from one or more of the 15 varietals in the region that account for 250 different labels. It could also describe the ambiance, personality, and calming, subliminal messaging of each winery’s location. Picture yourself, with glass in hand, mesmerized by the view of a distant range of volcanic mountains at Santa Elena, or the chirpy sound of Vermilion Flycatchers in the vineyards at Bodegas Origen, or the dreamy, serene sunset scenery at the aptly named Tierra Tinta.
On our late summer visit, the exuberant celebration of wine crossed over into Catas Urbanas, the “Taste in the City” festival in downtown Aguascalientes City, the state’s capital. Musical performances complemented the joy of celebrating red, white, and rosé wines, with local vintners and sommeliers offering tastes and pairing advice related to the satisfying mouthfeel of Tempranillos, Syrahs, Merlots, Cabernet Francs, and more.
Taste bud bliss also relates to the region’s traditional dishes. Chile Aguascalientes, a dish that originated at the Alameda Grand Hotel (our accommodation for three nights), featured local ingredients: Grapes, almonds, pear, chili, brown sugar, and ground beef, stuffed into an Ancho Chile and covered in a creamy, guava-based, nutty-flavored cinnamon sauce. So good!
The sensory experiences continued. At Campeonato 2024, a seasonal event held at the new Arena San Marcos, the equine competitions featured Charro, Mexican Cowboys, and Escaramuza, Cowgirls sporting traditional full-circle riding skirts. Teams from different parts of Mexico and the U.S. compete in synchronization and rodeo challenges: lassoing, roping, and galloping full speed before coming to a sliding stop.
Alex Garrido, a Charro, noted that Campeonato visitors can learn about the roots of Mexico and share in the passion felt by competitors and the local spectators. Natalie De Lo Peña, an Escaramuza from Guadalajara, excitedly spoke about the Campeonato’s family and community traditions. “These are the things I love about Mexico”.
And visitors can immerse themselves in Aguascalientes’ traditions and ties to the colorful past. At Bario de la Estación, one of the four historic neighborhoods in the city, Plaza de las Tres Centurias is a celebration of the Indigenous people (the Chichimeca) who lived in the area when the town was founded by the Spanish in 1575. The Plaza also serves as an homage to the trains in the early 20th century that followed the old silver route from Sante Fe to Mexico City, bringing people and industry to Aguascalientes. Today, the featured attractions include the dancing fountains, the old Railway Station, several boardable train cars, and train workshops that have been re-imagined as art galleries, museums, and a Convention Center.
San Marcos is probably the most famous of the neighborhoods due to the annual Feria Internacional de San Marcos, which draws upward of 8 million visitors. The 3 to 4-week event features bullfighting, cockfighting, livestock shows, and a casino. Celebrations begin about 10 days before dia de San Marcos on April 25, the feast day of San Marco, the city’s patron saint.
Traditions also abound at Plaza Patria, the downtown square outside the twin-towered Catedral Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion (a.k.a. Aguascalientes Cathedral), dating to 1704. We enjoyed a unique skyline view while standing beside the 10-ton Bell in one of the towers.
Close by is the red and pink Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), dating to 1665. Inside the former Rincón Gallardo family home are the colorful and dramatic political murals of Chilean artist Oswaldo Bara Cunningham, a student of famed muralist Diego Rivera.
However, the most celebrated artist in the city is José Guadalupe Posada, an illustrator and cartoonist who published a graphic in 1913 called “Calavera Garbancera”. The skeletal image was created to satirize Mexican women who, when traveling abroad, wore European clothes, thereby denying their Mexican heritage. But it wasn’t until 1947, when Posada’s cartoon was incorporated into one of Diego Rivera’s murals, that the female skeleton figure, now referred to as “La Catrina”, became an iconic symbol in Mexico and an integral feature of the Day of the Dead celebrations.
Mexico’s MuMu (Museo Nacional de la Muerte) carries on this imagery by showcasing Mexico’s relationship with the dead and how death is celebrated and commemorated around the world. Our guide, Aldo González, said visitors should come to the Museum to discover new ways to regard the dead…” not a dark way, but a more friendly way. Death is a part of life”. And he added, “We’re the only country where we come back from the dead for drinking and parties”.
But Aguascalientes is also a place to relax and unwind in the hot springs, after which the town was named. The Ojocaliente baths near the Alameda Hotel are the most popular.
Still, the hotspot for those craving something different is 45 minutes west of the city in the Magical Town of Calvillo, where visitors and locals flock to the Chuy Bombas Bar. For 100 pesos, Ephraim Bombas will prepare one of the namesake drinks (Bombas) with an ‘O-be-joyful’ medley of Grenadine, Vodka, Brandy, Rum, local Red Wine, Lime Juice, and Ice.
Calvillo’s attitude toward sampling different refreshments and food seems to be summed up perfectly by the motto of Alejibre Delicas Mexicanas in the downtown area. “Tripa Vacia…corazon sin Alegria”; “If your stomach is empty, your heart is without joy”.
And joy is abundant in Calvillo, known as the world capital of guava, with a gastronomic scene incorporating guava in soups, moles, salads, meat dishes, and pizza. At Terraza Grada Noventa & Seis, mixologist Daniel Huerta González will even prepare a yummy Guava Mimosa.
The Bar is located by stair #96 of the 115 steps that lead to the top of Las Graditas, a colorful contemporary residential block that offers panoramic views of the city. But at the Monument Santa Cruz, a more dramatic vista reveals the valley where the city rests, dotted with guava and avocado farms and surrounded by the Sierra Fria mountain range.
A visit to FrutLand puts the exclamation point on other creative ways to enjoy guava. At this farm-kitchen-showroom, three generations of the Landeras family offer guava samples as tea, fruit salad, chili, jam, mole, wine, smoked, and more.
Calvillo’s vibrant, historic town square features the colorful city sign, positioned by the Templo del Señor de Salitre, a 200-year old baroque–style church named after the town’s patron saint. Nearby is the Museo Nacional Pueblos Magicos, featuring the natural, historical, and cultural heritage of Mexico’s 177 Magical Towns.
The state of Aguascalientes, the capital city, and the Magical Town of Calvillo provide a memorable sensory experience for visitors. It’s a feast for the eyes, mind, imagination, and taste buds, with a special full-bodied call-out to the region’s exemplary wines and all the smiling and friendly people you meet along the way.
