Spain
Cycling Tenerife: Volcanic Climbs, Atlantic Views and the Joy of the E-Bike
Article and photography by Pat Lee
I mean, what could possibly go wrong I thought as I pondered an invitation to cycle in Tenerife, one of Spain’s Canary Islands, as a lead-up to one of the region’s premier cycling events.
Sure, the island is famous for its dramatic volcanic landscape (read: relentlessly hilly) and is a well-known training ground for elite cycling teams from across Europe. And yes, I’d be riding alongside young, extremely fit, almost professional cyclists who appear to be born wearing clip-in shoes and skin-tight Lycra.
Let’s just say, I am not that person.
Still, I’m game for almost anything, and the chance to see a beautiful part of the world from the saddle of a bike was too tempting to refuse.
On paper, the challenge seemed insurmountable. Long climbs, hairpin turns, and elevation gains that made my calves twitch just looking at the route map. In reality, it turned out to be not only doable, but exhilarating, thanks in large part to excellent e-bikes and experienced touring support from Tenerife Bike Tours who promised that no one would be left behind.
And indeed, I wasn’t.
Instead, I found myself discovering the pure, slightly giddy thrill of powering up one improbably steep, winding hill and then flying down the other side, the Atlantic glinting in the distance. We rode through quiet villages, past pastel-coloured houses adorned with floral displays and roadside cafés that felt like rewards earned.
The rest stops often involved a barraquito, Tenerife’s beloved layered coffee made with sweetened condensed milk, rich espresso, sometimes a splash of citrus liqueur, topped with milk foam, lemon peel and a dusting of cinnamon.
What struck me most was the sheer variety packed into every ride. In a single day, we moved from lunar-like volcanic terrain to lush pine forests, from exposed ridgelines with sweeping ocean views to shaded roads scented with eucalyptus. The climbs were challenging, but thanks to the e-assist, never punishing, and the descents were smooth and fast.
Tenerife’s Mount Teide, a dormant volcano, is Spain’s tallest peak. For the record, the challenging Vuelte al Teide was the island’s signature cycling event that our trip preceded with many of our group taking part. I was happy to be on the sidelines cheering.
With its year-round temperate climate, Tenerife is almost purpose-built for outdoor adventure. Cycling was the star of this trip, but it easily shares popularity with hiking, diving, windsurfing and just about any activity that benefits from sunshine, warm air and dramatic scenery. It’s no wonder athletes train here year-round.
Although Tenerife is the largest of Spain’s Canary Islands, it’s small enough that you can easily get from one part of the island to another in a few hours.
Tour operators like Tenerife Bike Tours can create custom tours that ensure routes are less hilly than others (although you will never entirely eliminate some elevation), incorporate other activities like a whale watching tour or add in more cultural or culinary elements if desired.
The tour company is planning a special solar eclipse tour for the upcoming total solar eclipse on Aug. 12.
And thanks to a culture of cycling, drivers are respectful and the rides felt safe.
From pine-scented forests to sunlit switchbacks dropping toward the Atlantic, the island was a revelation thanks to a little electric assist and the odd barraquito.
