Canada
Fernie, British Columbia:
A Rocky Mountain Town with a Soul
Article and photography by Jennifer Merrick
“This place has a soul,” said Max, our Scottish-born guide with Canyon Raft Co., who was navigating us down the shimmering Elk River. The sun’s rays warmed us, welcoming spring, and the snow on the Rocky Mountains glistened on the jagged peaks that surrounded us. We agreed that the ethereal combination of river and mountains in this corner of southeastern British Columbia, about three hours south of Calgary, was blessed. But it was more than just the stunning scenery that drew Max to Fernie, and why he’s still here after eight years. He explained that it was not just a pretty mountain town where tourists come to ski or hike, but rather a place where kids are still out on their bikes all day, people are welcoming and history and stories are alive.
“It’s a real community,” he concluded.
After our family’s getaway in Fernie we couldn’t agree more. Here were some of the highlights:
Cruising the trails on e-bikes
The Fernie Fox Hotel, where we had a lovely stay, is committed to sustainability with initiatives like rooftop solar panels, no single-use plastics and complimentary e-bikes for their guests. And it turns out that this mode of transport is the ideal way to explore the area.
The newly paved and accessible Fernie Valley Pathway connects to an extensive multi-use trail network. With no huffing and puffing, we zipped up to Fernie Provincial Park to enjoy a short hike on their trails, cruised along the Elk River through idyllic parkland and cycled through the town’s historic downtown, checking out its heritage buildings and local businesses.
Sipping a sunset cocktail with the legendary ghost rider
Fernie is rich in legends and folklore from the Three Sisters (represented by the three mountain peaks in the Lizard Range), whose heartbreak haunt the area to the celebrated ‘Griz’, a giant hermit with the strength of Hercules, who roams the mountains. But the most famous is the ghost rider who reveals himself on horseback on the face of Mt. Hosmer. Each summer day at sunset, the shadowy figure reveals itself. Some choice spots to enjoy the view and toast the spirited equestrian with a sundowner include the Griz Bar at the Fernie Alpine Resort and the Bayleaf Indian Fusion restaurant at the golf course.
Dining at local downtown restaurants
Fernie’s historic downtown is a joy to stroll around in. There are no chain stores, and numerous heritage buildings have been repurposed. The 1909 train station, for example, is now a hub for the arts with galleries and events and the town’s original bank is now a museum. Many other original buildings now house local businesses run by locals with passion and pride.
The restaurants are no exception. Big Bang Bagels makes their inspired bagels in-house, Nevados serves up flavorful Latin-fusion tapas with signature Mezcal and tequila cocktails, and the Bridge Bistro hosts brunch favorites with a view.
Marveling at the sublime views
With a glacier-fed river running through Fernie and the Rocky Mountain peaks surrounding it, you don’t have to go anywhere to appreciate the views. And it takes no time at all to reach trails with jaw-dropping panoramic vistas. We joined a guided excursion with Hike Fernie, which brought us through wild-flowered trails that led to benches perched on the edge, looking down to the town below and the mountains around us.
Equally stunning is the Elk River, where water adventures can be as relaxing as flyfishing and floating gently down the river or as adrenaline-filled as a white-water thrill ride through rapids. We opted for the float, and our guide, Max, pointed out wildlife like osprey and deer and told us about the soul of his new hometown.
